Off Season Italy: Why Portofino Is Best in September, According to Filmmaker Francesco Carrozini

06.04.2024 - 10:27 / cntraveler.com

This is part of Off Season Italy, a collection of guides highlighting the year-round appeal of Italy's most popular destinations, courtesy of our favorite local tastemakers. Read more here.

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Francesco Carrozzini

For Milan-born, New York-based filmmaker Francesco Carrozzini, being in Portofino is like a homecoming. The Ligurian resort town was the backdrop to nearly all his early summers and remains a place he returns to each year. But unlike his childhood, he often avoids being there in August. “Portofino is hard to reach, which for years kept it protected,” he says. “But now it hits capacity—and in August it is just too crowded.” Instead, Carrozzini insists mid-September is the sweet spot. “Most tourists have left and the Italians are back in school; it reminds me of those last days of summer where I would stay out from early morning to sunset and enjoy every minute.”

How would you describe Portofino in September?

It’s quiet, fewer boats dot the harbor. When I stroll through the square, I can take my time chatting with the vendors. In August they are too busy for that. A favorite spot is Bar Jolly, where I’ll chat with the owner, Mauro, for hours. This place is wonderful—it channels 1950s Riviera with old-school stripes and wood lacquered tables. In August, there is so much glitz that passes through Portofino but in September that’s all gone and the place starts to feel timeless again.

The crowds clear in the Piazzetta come September

Boat rides are a preferred mode of transportation, even in the fall

What do you look forward to eating this time of year?

I can’t decide between two very dear places to me. Taverna del Marinaio, owned by Manu and Paolo, feels like having dinner at a friend’s house. In September, I see all the people I grew up with in there, and I always eat marinated scampi. It is out of this world, done in some citrussy thing, like ceviche. Then I order a zucchini frittata, which is served in small bites, followed by the moscardini—like a baby octopus—cooked with wine and rosemary.

Do you have any other go-to spots?

Concordia—it’s more hidden. It’s not in the square and there is no view but it is family-owned. In Portofino, we say the owners are the mayors of food. All the Portofinese eat here when they go out. Do the pastas.

Tell me about the weather in September—how does it transform Portofino?

It’s warm and the sea feels like an open-air pool. The trees turn golden and they add a fragrance to the air—especially the maritime pines, which get exacerbated by the coolness in the air this time of year. It