You’ll know you’ve arrived at L’Escargot once you spot the vintage-style, neon lights spelling out its name, and notice the plaster bust of a person riding a giant snail above the door (it turns out this is the famous restaurant’s founder, Charles Gaudin, sat astride a giant gastropod). With its creaking stairs, top-floor, plant-filled bar and colourful, art-lined walls, the restaurant, in the heart of London’s Soho, has been at the epicentre of the capital city’s dining scene for nearly 100 years.