The sun had just set as I rolled down a dark, narrow lane in the remote Balinese village of Kaba-Kaba. The gate at the alley's end swung open to reveal a flurry of excited dogs and smiling staff to welcome my arrival. I’d made it to Lodge in the Woods. Any uncertainty melted away as the owner, Bernard Teo, greeted me with a hug and whisked me over to a communal table bustling with guests from all over the world.