Pedal the low road: cycling coast-to-coast across southern Scotland
10.08.2023 - 20:27
/ theguardian.com
The weather-beaten curves of a battered stone wall guide me out of Langholm, an idyllic old textile town tucked between the hills of the Esk valley, eight miles north of the English border.
As I pedal slowly around a steep corner, a lamb and her mother, grazing on the grassy fringes, scurry off up the road. I appreciate their show of faith in my cycling abilities, but on gradients of 9%, I wouldn’t have been able to keep their pace even if they’d crawled off. I pause for a breather at the MacDiarmid Memorial, a huge, metal sculpture of an open book, embellished with images from the work of the great poet Hugh MacDiarmid, who was born in Langholm.
The artwork depicts thistles, trout, eagles and ploughs, while the green of the forests and farmland behind shine through the silhouettes etched out of the framework. “Scotland small? Our multiform, our infinite Scotland small?” MacDiarmid famously wrote.
It certainly doesn’t feel small when you’re cycling across it.
I’ve been on my bike for a few days at this point, riding the Kirkpatrick C2C; south Scotland’s new coast-to-coast route, which runs 250 miles from Stranraer in Dumfries and Galloway on the west coast to Eyemouth in the Borders on the east. The waymarking will come next year, but the route is online now for experienced cyclists inspired to ride by the world’s first ever combined UCI World Championship events, which started last week, and are currently being contested around Scotland.
“The bike is part of our identity and culture here,” says Paula Ward, of South of Scotland Enterprise, one of various tourism bodies involved in the creation of the Kirkpatrick C2C. “The area is well known for cycling already, but this gives people a pre-logged route that you can download,” says Ward. “That makes it easy to come here to the south of Scotland to explore, having watched something like the World Championships or the Tour of Britain.”
The route is named after Kirkpatrick Macmillan, the Dumfriesshire blacksmith widely credited as having invented the first pedal-driven bicycle in the 1830s. “It’s one of our universal truths,” says Ward. “The south of Scotland gave the world the bike.”
Dumfries and Galloway is sometimes called Scotland’s forgotten corner, and after the decline of the textile industry in the 80s, Langholm risked becoming Scotland’s forgotten town. The Langholm Initiative was set up in 1994 to change that, and in 2019, they led a community buyout of the local moorland. Today, the community owns 4,200 hectares (10,500 acres) of this sublime countryside – and has transformed an old grouse moor into the Tarras Valley nature reserve.
The Kirkpatrick C2C cuts through the heart of the reserve, on a single-track road looking out to Solway Firth. The