Pure indulgence in Perth's Valley of Taste
21.07.2023 - 08:45
/ roughguides.com
/ Greg Dickinson
With over 150 wineries, breweries, chocolate factories and honey houses, exploring the Valley of Taste is probably one of the most indulgent things to do in Perth . Following a scenic 32km cycling trail, Rough Guides writer Greg Dickinson took on the summer heat to discover Western Australia ’s oldest wine-growing region on two wheels.
Perth has its fair share of reputations. Sydneysiders and Melbournians talk about it like the awkward cousin they’ve never met, and guidebooks introduce it as «the world's most isolated city». The most popular thing to have emerged from Perth in recent years is the psychedelic-rock band Tame Impala, and even their latest album is called Lonerism. Among Western Australians, however, Perth is becoming known for its burgeoning culinary scene, with a growing network of vineyards, breweries and gourmet food outlets quietly cropping up in and around the city.
The region’s wine-growing heritage dates back to the early 19th century, when botanist Thomas Waters noted that the climate would be perfect for planting vineyards. Some 180 years later, the Swan Valley, or Valley of Taste as it's known locally, has developed into something of a gastronomical theme park. Ten miles east of the city's centre, it's the focal point of Perth's foodie revolution.
My body clock still in disarray after the 24-hour flight, I had barely touched the ground before I caked myself in sun cream, picked up a map and borrowed an oversized mountain bike to explore the region.
The first stop on my self-guided tour was Sandalford, a behemoth of a winery whose 500 metre long driveway almost demands that cyclists practise their ‘no-hands’ technique. Despite being the most exclusive vineyard in the Swan Valley – alongside Houghton – the tasting menu here is pleasingly affordable, starting at AU$2.50 for eight samples (a spittoon is available for responsible cyclists). As well as selling internationally popular wines, Sandalford has styled itself as a mecca for New Romantic revivalists, with Duran Duran, Tears for Fears and Spandau Ballet all crooning at the estate in recent years.
Ready for something a bit lower key I pedalled to Ambrook, a family-run winery just a few hundred metres down the West Swan Road. Rather than a squeaky-clean waiter I was greeted by Bella, a black Labrador whose coat has taken on a rusty hue from the ubiquitous red earth. Italian owner Mickele Amonini followed shortly after and proceeded to ply me with wine samples, each accompanied by a generous wedge of fine cheese. What Ambrook lacks in finesse it makes up for in charm by the barrel.
Next on my whistle-stop winery tour was Lancaster Wines, whose alfresco bar is tended by a knowledgeable young staff. It’s worth visiting here to see