Rail route of the month: cheese, chocolate and a magical ride to the Swiss town of Gruyères
02.04.2024 - 11:27
/ theguardian.com
/ Lake Lucerne
/ Lake Geneva
It was a handpainted sign on a wooden barn that piqued my interest in Gruyères. I was travelling from Emmental to Montreux last year, following the wonderful Golden Pass rail route. Our train paused at Montbovon, the start of a steep climb up to the line’s final dramatic mountain pass. There was the prospect of stunning views of Lake Geneva ahead. To the right of the railway, I spotted the bold sign: “La Gruyère vous salue” (the region, like the cheese, lacks the village’s final “s”).
With time to spare earlier this month, I returned to Montbovon to explore the branch railway that runs from there down the Sarine valley to Gruyères and beyond. This time I arrive on one of the new Golden Pass trains which now run through from Montreux to Interlaken, relying on some technical magic to slip from narrow-gauge to standard-gauge tracks along the way. The tourists in the posh prestige class are tucking into platters of charcuterie accompanied by Swiss wine. The climb up from Montreux is as magical as ever, twisting and turning up into the hills with Lake Geneva far below. Forty minutes out from Montreux, the train makes its first scheduled stop. This is Montbovon, a village that my old Baedeker guide advises is “noted for good cherry brandy”. I am the sole passenger alighting from the train, which after a brief stop is on its way again, now following the Sarine valley upstream towards Gstaad.
On a side platform, another train awaits. It is a humble local service, with none of the flair of the Golden Pass train, which can be heard tooting its horn as it climbs up the ravine carved by the Sarine River. The local train is signed for Palézieux via Gruyères. Soon we are on our way and within a minute rattling right down the main street of Montbovon, passing the dairy and the baker to our left.
So perhaps this isn’t a train at all! Is it really a tram that masquerades as a train while waiting by platform 3 at Montbovon station? It is in fact a hybrid, sometimes running alongside roads, but elsewhere looping through forests and skirting chasms and gorges. These hills are the Prealps, a series of folded ranges that give real character to Switzerland’s Fribourg Canton. Not quite the real deal, you may think, but very special in their own way. The journey of 27 miles from Montbovon to Palézieux skirts the eastern, northern and then the western flank of Le Moléson, one of the most prominent peaks of the Fribourg Prealps. For Baedeker, Le Moléson was “the Rigi of western Switzerland,” an allusion to the mountain by Lake Lucerne that achieves no great height but affords stunning views of many Alpine ranges. You don’t need to climb to the summit of Le Moléson to appreciate the scenery. Even from the train there are