Toulouse lies between France's Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts, not far from the Pyrenees mountains as well as a number of charming cities such as Bordeaux, Agen, Carcassonne and others.
18.08.2023 - 12:31 / theguardian.com
Every great railway station needs a guardian angel. Zurich has one of the quirkiest. A colourful sculpture of a curvaceous, swimsuit-clad woman with golden wings hovers over the main concourse at the city’s Hauptbahnhof. L’ange protecteur by French artist Niki de Saint Phalle is as intriguing as the busy departure boards. With direct trains to destinations across 10 countries, this station is rich in possibilities. Anywhere from Amsterdam to Zagreb! Berlin, Bratislava or Bologna? Or perhaps Paris or Prague?
For lovers of fine scenery, the star departure of the day is, in my opinion, the 08.40 to Graz. This EuroCity train includes an Austrian restaurant car and one of the rare panorama carriages owned by Swiss operator SBB. There’s only one other international departure from Zurich which offers such panoramic delight: the EC8 at 10.59 to Hamburg. There are some fine scenic stretches on that route to be sure, most notably the hour-long cruise down the Rhine Gorge from Mainz to Koblenz. But that cannot compete with the EC163 to Graz which, if you excuse a few tunnels, offers over nine hours of first-class Alpine scenery on its journey of 325 miles (522km) to Austria’s second city.
The EuroCity train to Graz is called the Transalpin, a name which was historically used by the first train of the day from Zurich to Vienna, but since late 2013 references the daytime EuroCity from Zurich to Graz. Over the last 10 years, the Transalpin timings have barely changed. At bang on 08.40 we roll out of Zurich and are soon speeding along the south side of the Zürichsee. There are lakeshore views aplenty as we travel through a region which Thomas Cook described as “the Lancashire of Switzerland”. The mills are long gone. At Sargans, we make a sharp turn to the north and then, just an hour into our journey, we come to the station stop at Buchs. We then cross the River Rhine into mighty Liechtenstein.
I am suddenly overwhelmed by gratitude to the population of Liechtenstein who, in a referendum three years ago, decided that trains should run slowly through their diminutive principality. Good for them! They turned down a proposal to improve the single-track railway that the Transalpin follows through Liechtenstein.
So we enjoy a gentle trundle through six miles of Liechtenstein territory to reach Austria where we loop around Feldkirch’s hilltop castle to reach the town’s main station. For James Joyce, leaving Austria in the first world war, Feldkirch was his last stop on Habsburg territory. He was anxious that his manuscripts would be confiscated by the Austrian authorities. Revisiting Feldkirch in peacetime, he recalled “Over there, on those tracks, the fate of Ulysses was decided in 1915.” The German rendering of those
Toulouse lies between France's Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts, not far from the Pyrenees mountains as well as a number of charming cities such as Bordeaux, Agen, Carcassonne and others.
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