Road tripping: from Las Vegas to Great Basin National Park

10.06.2024 - 13:47 / lonelyplanet.com

Senior Director of Content Laura Motta loves the American West for its intense beauty, endless layers of human and natural history, and its full-on sense of weirdness. She took a road trip from Las Vegas to Great Basin National Park. Here's what she encountered on the way.

As you drive north out of Las Vegas along US Rte 93, the Great Basin Highway, the flat desert falls away and the mountains rise up on either side. They are green, then craggy brown, then blue-gray in the distance. This is America at its most expansive and mind-bogglingly beautiful, and the view out your car windows is as much your "destination" as anything else you'll see on this trip.

Two hours north of Las Vegas, Rte 93 intersects with Rte 375 — a desolate stretch of road known as the Extraterrestrial Highway. This is as close as you'll get to Area 51, the highly classified US Air Force base that spawned persistent conspiracy theories and rumors of alien research. Knowing visitors are forbidden, I made a quick stop in the town of Hiko instead to visit some quirky and definitely unclassified sites that capture the area's kitsch factor. E.T. Fresh Jerky is a gift shop that specializes in "alien" (actually beef) jerky. It makes a good snack for the drive. Plus, there are some fun, photo-ready items in the parking lot (a giant "crashed" space ship, a mural of otherworldly creatures). Just up the road, another gift shop called the Alien Research Center is where you'll find shot glasses, t-shirts and stickers adorned with little green men.

Stretch your legs and grab lunch or a snack in the town of Caliente. I had a quesadilla at Knotty Pine, where you can enjoy the vintage vibes and play slot machines in the bar. You should also get gas in town, so take the opportunity to fuel up even if your tank isn't empty.

Just past Caliente on Rte 93, you'll reach Cathedral Gorge State Park. This dramatic canyon, formed by eroded rock and clay, looks like a giant melting layer cake. It has some easy trails near the park entrance that can be completed in less than hour. Note that the park requires advance reservations for entry at peak times.

By the time you reach the town of Ely, you will have earned a rest. I stayed at the Motel 6 (spotless, with especially welcoming staff) and the historic Hotel Nevada (Old West vibes, lots of taxidermy in the lobby).   

Drive about an hour west of Ely to reach Great Basin National Park, which is known for snow-capped peaks and an intricate cave system. There are also groves of rare, twisty limbed bristlecone pines, some of which are thought to be more than 5000 years old.

Start your morning by descending into Lehman Caves, the park's central attraction and a must-see on any visit. The caves are classified as their