This summer's record-breaking heat has brought environmental consequences across the US, from coral bleaching in Florida to cacti toppling over in Arizona.
21.07.2023 - 08:16 / roughguides.com
In the final part of our four seasons in Slovenia series, we meet the orange winemakers of the Goriška region, and discover why autumn is one of the best times to visit the country. Eleanor Aldridge went to find out more.
Autumn is a beautiful time to visit the far west of Slovenia. The leaves of the Malvazija, Jakot and Rebula vines are flecked with gold, amber and pink. Light breezes rustle the olive and permission bushes, and pigs fattening for this year’s pršut, or prosciutto, snuffle obliviously in the gentle sunshine. The odd hiker traversing the Alpe Adria Trail and tractors trundling in with the harvest are the only interruptions.
Here, the Slovenian region of Goriška merges seamlessly into Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia; and surveying the rolling hills and scattering of red-roofed farmhouses, you’d be forgiven for thinking that you were across the border. This part of Slovenia has a character quite different to the misty mountains around Lake Bled and the busy towns of the Adriatic coast. The country might be small, but it packs a lot into twenty thousand square kilometres.
Yet there’s more than just natural beauty here. Goriška is home to some of Europe’s most exciting winemakers – known for their natural orange wines – and thanks to a growing number of B&Bs and wine routes, this is the perfect time to discover them.
© Andrej Safaric/Shutterstock
The natural winemaking renaissance began in the 1990s. A group of Slovenian farmers decided to return to traditional methods, growing their grapes organically and producing macerated white wines, commonly known as orange wines in the UK and USA.
These wines are made from white grapes but vinified like red wines. The juice is left to macerate on the skins for up to a month – imparting colour, flavour and tannins – rather than being pressed straight off. The result is an array of orange- to honey-coloured wines that exhibit a unique set of spicy, bitter and floral notes.
Orange wines are likely to be “the most unusual wines you ever taste” according to natural wine authority, Isabel Legeron, and they’re coveted from London to Tokyo.
The ideal place to start a voyage of discovery is Ajdovščina. (Try pronouncing it like «out of China».) Only an hour’s drive from Ljubljana at the heart of the Vipava Valley, this pretty town of just over 6000 inhabitants is built on Roman foundations. Its narrow streets are interesting to wander and provide shelter from the valley’s famous wind, the burja, which is starting to flex its icy muscles at this time of year.
In the town centre, tasting room and boutique Faladur provides a great introduction to Vipava Valley wine and gastronomy. They stock bottles from a host of local winemakers and offer food pairings that give a sense
This summer's record-breaking heat has brought environmental consequences across the US, from coral bleaching in Florida to cacti toppling over in Arizona.
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