Serenity now: 5 days in Caribe Sur, Costa Rica

27.06.2024 - 11:19 / lonelyplanet.com

Jun 26, 2024 • 8 min read

Caribe Sur, on the very southern tip of Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast might be my top mentally-I’m-here places. Its the exact location I pictured as a teenager when I dreamed about a life centered on surfing and sun and bicycles. 

This area starts in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (where the party is) and ends in Manzanillo. You'll find a string of stunning, secluded beaches between these two endpoints, perfect for walking, hiking and simply wandering.

The culture here feels slightly different from the rest of Costa Rica – residents still live by a pura vida ethos and tico time definitely reigns supreme (my favorite thing ever), but there is a distinct Indigenous influence and a definite Afro-Caribbean culture.  It's not the easiest place to get to, but if you’re looking for adventure with a side of pura vida, this is the place. 

And here’s the thing: you've got options. Spend the entire trip sitting on the deck of your bungalow staring into the rainforest and making friends with the monkeys, or dive into adventure headfirst.

Grab your flip-flops and a bathing suit and hop on this banana bike, 'cause we’re going to the jungle.

Where to fly into: You’ll want to book your flight into Puerto Limón. You can fly into San Jose, but the drive is long and kind of treacherous. Limón is only an hour away from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

How to get from the airport: Rent a car or book a shuttle. The cheapest option is a bus, which takes about two hours; a shuttle or car will take you 50 minutes. If you’re staying at Hotel Aguas Claras (see below), they'll arrange transportation for you.

Getting around: Renting a car is nice, but you don’t really need wheels in this part of the world. Sights are spread out, but there are plenty of taxis and everyone rides bikes (which is by far the most fun way to get around). 

Where to stay: Personally, I don’t care if I’m right on the beach or not – the jungle is just as wonderful as the sea. I like to book a vacation rental near Playa Chiquita or Punta Uva, both great places for a base, but if you want a hotel, book Hotel Aguas Claras. This gorgeous collection of beach bungalows is owned by long-time resident and artist Elizabeth Steinworth, and as she says, it's a place for artists, doers and tinkerers. Like most things in this precious corner of the world, it was created with the environment in mind, so your surroundings feel as natural as if the earth had created it itself. And you’ll be enchanted with Playa Chiquita just steps from your door.

When to go: April is the prime nesting season for green turtles, and I promise it's an experience you don’t want to miss. But if surfing is more your thing, you'll catch the best swells December through March.

Arrive:  I