Spain’s Vías Verdes exemplify its cycling culture

19.07.2024 - 17:30 / lonelyplanet.com

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Jul 19, 2024 • 6 min read

Spain’s cities are famously bike-friendly, laden with car-free paths, well-equipped rental centers and leafy, sun-dappled routes. Valencia, for just one example, has an enviable cycling scene, with commuters and visitors peddling throughout the green-minded city.

But beyond the bustling cities, some cyclists seek more secluded paths. Cyclists also dash through pine-scented forests, past fluttering butterflies and into under-explored villages using Vías Verdes (greenways), an extensive network of lush paths made from old train tracks.

Vías Verdes are the quiet hero of Spain's countryside, and there's a far-reaching community of cyclists, walkers and runners who adore them. There are more than 2,000 miles of paths in all – from long, rocky roads pausing at pretty pueblos to sweetly scented trails sandwiched between blossoming orange groves. The decommissioned railway lines have gentle gradients (around 3 percent, max), so everyone can pedal peacefully.

Join the locals on these beloved bike paths: the best way to experience Spain's natural beauty.

Valencia is crisscrossed with car-free paths; the most popular is the trail along the 9km Jardines del Turia. Tired of peddling past baobab trees, or had your fill of beachfront bike paths? Vía Verde de Ojos Negros makes for a refreshing day trip. Starting at Barracas, it descends through rugged rock walls carved for the old train, which used to ferry iron ore from the mountains to the port of Sagunto. The track weaves through verdant Valencan farmland and is dotted with sun-dappled picnic benches and thrilling old tunnels. There are many ways to tackle it, but one of the easiest is to take the train north from Valencia to Navajas (around 1½ hours). From Navajas train station, it's just a 6-minute walk to Camping Altomira, where you'll find bike hire, a lovely all-day restaurant and a play area for kids. Bike hire costs around €15 daily (visit hardacho.com for more details). This includes a transfer of either 22km or 42km, leaving only a gently sloped path back to Navajas.

In the northeast of Catalonia, Vía Verde del Carillet Olot-Girona is the one to beat for stunning scenery, cute villages and dense forests. Begin at Centre Logistic de Bicicletas in Olot (bicicletes.atma.cat, bike hire from €22 per day), a resourceful shop that'll help you plan a pin-sharp itinerary right down to local maps and transfers. This route bids farewell to Olot via a meditative, tree-lined path that follows the river Fluvià. The 54km cycleway plunges into emerald mountains, taking in the dramatic dormant volcanoes of Garrotxa and timewarp towns where balconies are brimming with hot pink petunias. The route runs just behind Sant Feliu de Pallerols;