Staying in a Japanese ryokan: a first-timer's guide
21.07.2023 - 08:46
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It’s a cliché to say that Japan is a land of contrasts – but, in terms of accommodation, it really is. There are some weird and many wonderful places to stay, from personal capsules and love hotels to lodgings in five-star luxury.
But there’s one type of accommodation that has preserved its tradition for centuries: the ryokan. Staying at one of these Japanese-style guesthouses is the ultimate Japanese experience. But there are a few things you should know before you go – here’s our guide for the first-time visitor.
Even if you’ve never heard of a ryokan, they might look familiar. Think traditional Japan: low, wooden buildings with translucent paper screens, sliding doors, straw tatami mats, bamboo, geisha serving tea and immaculately designed gardens – perhaps with a small pond stocked with carp and a wooden bridge.
When you walk inside, you step back a few centuries and everything slows down. It’s a moment of respite from the hectic world outside.
Many ryokan are located next to hot springs that occur naturally close to Japan’s many volcanoes. For this reason, a communal bath in the hot springs (onsen) has become a traditional activity at a ryokan.
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Ryokans were established as coaching inns back in the Edo period (1603–1868), when feudal lords from all provinces in Japan were obliged to travel to Edo (Tokyo) every other year to visit the shogun. These were places that the lords and their samurai warriors could rest after a long day on the road.
The guests of honour would spend their evenings bathing, enjoying a tea ceremony and an elaborate meal that lasted all evening, with many rounds of sake. Theryokan was a place of sanctuary, where the warriors could feel safe from attack by enemies. They were often built with simple defences, such as steep, narrow stairs and low doorways and ceilings that made swinging a sword difficult.
Today, this accommodation comes in many forms, from historic and luxury styles, to family-run minshuku and more modern hotels withryokan features.
Everything revolves around making the guest feel comfortable, from the choice of artworks on the wall to the absence of clutter. Don't plan an evening out – you’ll want to enjoy the ryokan experience to the full.
On arrival, wait to be invited in. You must remove your shoes and put on a pair of slippers before stepping inside. Leave your shoes in the genkan (foyer).
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Most ryokans offer a choice of Western-style or Japanese-style rooms. The latter are more expensive – but it’s worth it for the full experience.
Remove your slippers and leave them just inside the door of your room. It’s likely that the floor will be covered with tatami mats. You can also expect paper interior walls (shoji or fusama), sliding