Like many people, Adeena Sussman has had a nonlinear relationship with religion. The American-born Israeli transplant, who grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area, left behind the traditions of her Orthodox Jewish childhood for a spell—in particular, the observance of Shabbat, or the Jewish day of rest. But she found that without this ritual, she had trouble recharging. “I was exhausted without taking a break from the week—going straight into the weekend without marking it with some form of self-care, relaxation, or withdrawal from all the things I was doing,” she says. Slowly, she started to reincorporate things like lighting candles and cooking meals back into her Fridays, “not because I needed to, but because I wanted to," she says. “Because it puts a barrier between me and the regular week. It was a way for me to accompany myself into a different headspace, a different relaxation space, and even a different style of cooking.”
This is a point of view I understand intimately. I grew up in New Jersey, in a relaxed Jewish household, but my mother became more observant (what's referred to as Ba-al Teshuvah—literally a “master of return”) when I was around 10. For nearly two decades, my family would gather around the table on Friday nights, lighting candles, reciting prayers, and eating the same meal of roast chicken, peas, and kasha varnishkes (noodles with buckwheat groats); and although my mother's spiritual devotion would put me off religion in a larger sense for many years, this singular ritual has, for me, endured. The way we gather and celebrate gives a fullness to life, I've found; slowing down for a moment helps us to enjoy everything else.
The chef and cookbook author Adeena Sussman
When I heard that Sussman, who authored the terrific cookbook Sababa: Fresh, Sunny Flavors from My Israeli Kitchen: A Cookbook, was writing her next one about Shabbat, my ears perked up. I wanted to learn more about her relationship with this day of rest—and of course, what she cooks for it. Ahead of the release of Shabbat: Recipes and Rituals from My Table to Yours, out September 5, we talked about the merging of different culinary traditions, the social contract that powers Shabbat, and how the trendy dinner parties du jour take their cues from the weekly meal. “I think Shabbat meets where you're at in your life,” Sussman says. I couldn't agree more.
Tell me a little about your background and your connection to Shabbat.
I grew up in a pretty traditional Jewish home and Shabbat was the focal point of my family's social and culinary life. I'm no longer Orthodox, but Shabbat has endured as an important part of my connection to my culture. I took for granted how incredible it was to have a built-in 24-hour bubble
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I live in Australia, while my cousin Yonatan, who is 15 years younger than me, grew up in Israel then moved to the US after college. Despite the age and cultural differences, he was always the family member I was closest to. We got along well and he always felt like a younger brother.
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When Khalil Karawan buys his chickpeas, he does it not in grams or kilos, but in tonnes. It takes such elephantine quantities to keep up with the fierce demand at Abu Hassan, the renowned hummus empire started by his grandfather in the 1950s. The business has grown so much from its humble food cart origins that 27-year-old Khalil can now sell thousands of plates each day across three locations in the ancient district of Jaffa. And when I visit his Shivtei Israel Street outpost one Friday morning, I arrive at peak hour.
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A passenger on a United Airlines flight that dropped 28,000 feet in around 8 minutes last week told The New York Post that she sent a text to her daughter because she thought she was going to die.
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One of the fruits of getting on a train is that it makes me want to chat. So instead of gazing at Kent as we proceed to Paris from London, I talk to my neighbour. Martha grew up in San Francisco, studied in Oregon, and puts syrup on everything. When we part ways on the concourse of Gare du Nord – she to lunch with a friend from Wisconsin, me to amble around before continuing towards Turkey – she says the best things about the US are Taylor Swift and meatloaf. It’s good to talk.
As a newbie California resident keen on exploring as much of my adopted home as possible, I was struck by how geographically diverse the Golden State is, the impracticalities of making a "quick trip" to one part of the state from the other end of it, and its surprisingly variable weather.
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