The drama and beauty of Luxembourg’s capital often comes as a surprise to the first-time visitor. The Grand Duchy – the world’s only sovereign nation whose head of state is a Grand Duke – emerged in 963 AD when Count Siegfried built a castle on top of the Bock cliffs. Today the Bock and Old Quarter – a UNESCO World Heritage site – perch on a sandstone plateau high above the Alzette and Pétrusse rivers, and wandering its upper and lower cities is like strolling through history.
The grand architecture of the old town is testament to Luxembourg’s longheld wealth, not to mention a location that led to half of medieval Europe coveting the city. French influence in the capital dates back centuries – and numerous invasions – but it wasn’t until the 1600s that the military engineer Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban transformed the city into one of the most impressive fortifications on the continent.
However, the Grand Duchy’s overriding influence is Germanic, the capital thriving under the Holy Roman Empire and Habsburg Dynasty until the country gained independence in 1867 and its walls were torn down in exchange for its freedom.
While Luxembourg has its own discrete language and culture – of which locals are rightly proud – it remains a pot-pourri of European influences, and not just because of its history. Today, the city is a hub for Europe’s legal, financial and political institutions; and in stark contrast to its old quarter, the glassy high-rises of ultra-modern Kirchberg now glare back across the valley. This area’s museums and its parks of quirky sculptures and installations shouldn’t be glossed over by visitors, and even here you can still find relics of the capital’s old fortifications. The city’s business focus also has a bonus for travellers, as it ensures that it empties of many of its visitors and cross-border workers at the weekend, meaning you can pick up a room for a fraction of the weekday prices.
How to spend a short break in Luxembourg City
The Old Quarter and its attractions are easily explored on foot. Take in the double-arched Pont Adolphe Bridge and Passerelle viaduct, then wander to Constitution Square to see its 1923-built war memorial, topped by the gilt statue of the ‘Golden Lady’ (Gëlle Fra). The latter was lost for decades after the invading Germans tore the monument down in 1940. It only reappeared 41 years later, found in pieces beneath a local stadium – a mystery that remains unsolved. The figure atop the obelisk now is a reproduction.
Next, head east to the cavernous Notre-Dame Cathedral, a heady mix of Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture. You also can’t visit the Grand Duchy without paying homage to the Grand Ducal Palace, the city residence for the Grand Duke of
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