Trip within a Trip: Osaka and Kyoto, Japan

02.05.2024 - 11:57 / lonelyplanet.com

Senior Director of Content Laura Motta recently spent a week in Fukuoka, Japan. To make the most of her time in the country, she tacked on a four-day excursion to Osaka and Kyoto – a trip within a trip, which anyone can replicate.

Everyone goes to Tokyo, and I would never tell you to skip it. But another critical part of any Japan itinerary is that magical Shinkansen (bullet train) ride south to Osaka, and the astounding sites that await beyond. A mind-boggling pair of cities – Osaka and Kyoto – are crammed with more shrines and temples, steel-and-glass skyscraper malls, scenic vistas and world-class restaurants than you can experience in a month, never mind in just a few days. This was my third trip to Japan and my second time visiting Osaka and Kyoto.

Before I get to my recommendations, here are a few practical tips:

You’ve been traveling all morning. It’s time to eat. (Unless, of course, you stuffed yourself en route on the amazing bento boxes you can get at Tokyo Station.) Keep it simple like I did and grab onigiri (rice balls) or a sando at 7-Eleven. There’s one on every corner, you’ll only spend a few dollars, and buying local snacks – especially in Japan – is among travel’s greatest joys. 

If you’re in Osaka, go see the Glico man. It's a rule. Or maybe it's just mine. This famous animated sign of a runner, arms raised, about to cross the finish line in some hypothetical marathon in the sky, remains delightful despite the tourist crush on the streets below. This ad for the Glico candy company (candy bars give you energy – get it?) has become an informal mascot of Dotonbori , Osaka’s dining and nightlife district. After dark, it’s fun to wander here through the area’s many arcades, claw-machine and pachinko parlors, and shops. If you start here on a weeknight, it’s delightfully quiet.

Insider tip: Arrive before sunset and duck into a tiny side street to Hōzen-ji, a small temple known for its moss-covered statues. I was there when they were lighting the lanterns for the evening – a dreamy experience indeed.

Dontonbori is teeming with restaurants. You can’t miss the distinctive signage advertising takoyaki (grilled octopus balls), gyoza and crab. My favorite takoyaki stand, Takoyaki Yoriabunzemon, is humble compared to its bombastic neighbors; there is no 5ft marquee. Inside, you’ll sit on a well-worn barstool while the single cook pours takoyaki batter into the famous round molds and serves it to you still piping hot, and slathered in mayo, barbecue sauce and bonito flakes. A warning: if you value the skin on the roof of your mouth, do not eat too fast here.

The Shinkansen train between Osaka and Kyoto is cheap and lightning fast. This trip is included in many Japanese rail passes, but