Like the turning of the leaves and pumpkin-spice everything, at this time of year there’s an annual influx of suggestions for pairing Halloween candy with wine. Like for example, Sour Patch Kids with orange wine. And I always think, why would you ruin a perfectly lovely glass of wine by sipping it while consuming a mass-produced sugar bomb. But Bertil Jean-Chronberg, the French-born sommelier and proprietor of Bonde Fine Wine Shop in Cambridge, Mass., says why not?
“It's no worse than drinking a good bottle of wine with a Big Mac or a Whopper, or chips or chicken nuggets,” says Jean-Chronberg, whose shop features a carefully curated selection of eco-sustainable and predominantly American wines, with a focus on small production. “If you can’t commit a crime on Halloween, when can you?”
Jean-Chronberg’s exploration of fine wine and candy started more than 20 years ago, when he and his wife dipped into his daughter’s post trick-or-treating haul while enjoying a bottle of wine. “Some [of the sweets] were quite delicious and surprising with the wine,” he recalls. “So, it has become a tradition for us, and every year, even if our daughter no longer does trick-or-treat, we continue to ‘treat some tricks.’ ”
And Jean-Chronberg has brought the tradition to his wine shop where he hosts an annual post-Halloween pairing event ($89). He says guest enjoy a lot of laughs and camaraderie, while learning how to combine sweet aromatics with the different types of wine. “Even if the theme can be scary, we guarantee that Bonde Fine Wine it’s all about sweetness in the approach,” he says. Since we can’t all crowd into his shop on Nov. 1 — the event maxes out at eight guests—I asked him to share some tips for hosting your own tasting. Or just dipping into your kid’s stash after they’ve gone to bed.
What are some general guidelines for pairing Halloween candy with wine? Think about the colors, textures, aromatics, and sweetness. The secret of a perfect pairing involves aligning the wine and food in terms of the most complementary color, body, aromatics, and tartness/astringency possible. As the sweetness intensity rises, it will call for the level of fruit exuberance in the wine.
Do you have a favorite combination from years past? Absolutely, three fabulous combos are: Sour Patch Kids Zombies Halloween Candy Orange flavor with Savage Grace, Orange Gewurztraminer 2019, Oak Ridge Vineyard, Columbia Gorge, Wash. Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups (Milk Chocolate) with Gilbert Cellars, Red Left Bank 2018, Horse Heaven Hills, Yakima Valley, Wash. And frozen KitKat Halloween Witches Brew Marshmallow with Dr. Konstantin Frank Sparkling Blanc de Blancs 2017, Finger Lakes. [Note: He recommends freezing the KitKats.]
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