The tonka bean, a wizened-looking South American seed, is beloved for its complex almond-vanilla scent, often appearing as an ingredient in perfumes. Outside the United States, it has also long been utilized by chefs, but studies have indicated that coumarin, a chemical compound in the plant, can cause liver damage in animals, and the Food and Drug Administration banned the bean in commercial foods in 1954. Now, with reports that the minuscule amounts used to impart big flavor are harmless (and the F.D.A. seemingly not particularly interested in enforcing the ban in recent years), tonka is showing up on dessert menus here. Thea Gould, 30, the pastry chef at the daytime luncheonette La Cantine and evening wine bar Sunsets in Bushwick, Brooklyn, was introduced to tonka after the restaurant’s owner received a jar from France, where it’s a widely used ingredient. Gould says the bean is an ideal stand-in for nuts — a common allergen — and infuses it into panna cotta, whipped cream and Pavlova. Ana Castro, 35, the chef and owner of the New Orleans seafood restaurant Acamaya, discovered tonka as a young line cook at Betony, the now-closed Midtown Manhattan restaurant. Entranced by the ingredient’s grassy, stone fruit-like notes, she’s used it to flavor a custardy corn nicuatole, steeped it into roasted candy squash purée and grated it fresh over a lush tres leches cake. And at the Musket Room in New York’s NoLIta, the pastry chef Camari Mick, 30, balances tonka’s richness with acidic citrus like satsuma and bergamot. Over the past year, she’s incorporated it into a silky lemon bavarois and a candy cap mushroom pot de crème and whipped it into ganache for a poached pear belle Hélène. “Some people ask our staff, ‘Isn’t tonka illegal?’” she says. Their answer: Our pastry chef’s got a guy. —
Ultimate weekend in Manhattan: 3-day itinerary of its greatest hits
07.08.2024 - 20:14 / lonelyplanet.com
Aug 7, 2024 • 7 min read
It’s been 10 years since I moved to New York City, and I rarely get tired of its sparkle. I don’t consider myself a true local – I grew up on a cul-de-sac and took a school bus (not subway) to class – but I’ve made a home here in Manhattan, where I’ve lived in various neighborhoods over the past decade. The rent? Astronomical. The possibilities? Priceless.
Jay-Z and Alicia Keys had it right when they called NYC a “concrete jungle where dreams are made of.” People come here to find themselves; there are endless choices, and it’s up to you to carve your own path through the beautiful chaos. The city has five boroughs, each with its own magic – Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, Bronx and Staten Island – but I’m going to focus on Manhattan, because if you want to see the Big Apple’s greatest hits, this is where to start.
When to arrive: Manhattan is on 24/7, so come whenever works best for your budget. That said, regardless of destination, I like to arrive during the daytime for safety reasons, especially if I’m taking public transportation.
How to get from the airport: You’ve got options ranging from $ to $$$. Here’s our full breakdown of how to get to and from NYC’s three main airports: JFK, LGA and EWR.
Getting around town: Walk or take the subway. There are lots of rideshare options, but approach them with caution; surge pricing gets expensive during rush hour, late at night and during bad weather. Often traffic is so bad, it’s faster to take the train than a car.
Where to stay: You can’t get more NYC than The Plaza – yes, from Eloise at The Plaza. (And Sex and the City and Home Alone 2!) For something less expensive but still trendy, try The Dominick or Arlo inSoHo or Midtown.
What to pack: Your comfiest shoes. You’ll be getting your steps in.
Morning: Grab coffee and a classic New York bagel with bacon, egg and cheese at Best Bagel Coffee or with cream cheese and lox (smoked salmon) at Russ & Daughters, then go where locals avoid at all costs: Times Square, the glittering Disney World of NYC. You’ve got to see it at least once in your lifetime, and I recommend getting there as early as possible to beat the crowds. If seeing a Broadway show is on your bucket list, line up at the TKTS booth there for last-minute discounted tickets.
How to spend the day: Next, skip going up the Empire State Building and instead head east to Summit One Vanderbilt, a newer skyscraper that gives you sweeping city views plus immersive art installations. It’s connected to Grand Central Terminal, which is worth a stroll – look up at the ceilings! – and has a food court with lots of lunch options.
If you’ve got time to spare, take the 4 or 5 express subway to the Upper East Side and see a bit of The Metropolitan
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