Warsaw vs Kraków: which Polish city will win your heart?

15.08.2024 - 10:54 / lonelyplanet.com

Aug 14, 2024 • 8 min read

When it comes to two Polish titans battling for first place, how can you possibly choose just one to spend your time in? Wonderful Warsaw and compelling Kraków both have incredible experiences to enjoy, excellent dining scenes, inspiring culture, historical significance and a thriving nightlife.

Relax, sit back and worry no more. Two esteemed Lonely Planet writers are here to pitch you the best that their beloved cities have to offer in an effort to win your heart. The only thing left for you to do is start planning that trip.

Laura Studarus is a freelance writer who has visited Warsaw every summer for the last decade. Her idea of a good time is fueling up on pierogi from a milk bar, grabbing her camera, and spending the day walking across as much of the city as possible.

Warsaw is still Poland's wild child, constantly redefining its identity as it grows and leaves communism further in the rearview mirror. While Kraków is undeniably beautiful, it also feels stuck in time. Experiencing the modern side of Poland requires a visit to its capital city.

The capital city has a unique ability to repurpose the past. You can see the trendy pizza place, bakery, and jazz bar housed inside the Former Polish Communist Party HQ. There’s also Hotel Warszawa, a former WWII stronghold turned five-star accommodation. Or maybe you’d prefer to eat at Hala Gwardii, a former boxing hall turned food hall. The fine art of repurposing has led to comparisons with Berlin but like all travel dupes, the similarities are only a starting point.

You’ve probably seen photos of Warsaw’s colorful Old Town. The neighborhood is an interesting window into the past but keep in mind that at only 71 years old, it’s a historical recreation. But age (or the lack of) has no impact on the beauty of this fairytale-like enclave – particularly from the viewing platform next to the main square when the entire area is drenched in pink hues by the sunset.

Compliment the experience by visiting the Palace of Culture and Science to get a birds-eye view of the city. A “gift” from Stalin to the people of Warsaw, the monument located in the exact city center is now a creative and social hub featuring a movie theater, a lively bar, and a viewing platform, which gifts you the view of a crazy quilt of twisting streets, brutalist architecture, and modernist skyscrapers.

Though the city center has an impressive list of attractions, modern Polish life takes place outside the hub. Head south to visit Mokotów, a neighborhood full of green spaces like wild Arkadia Park or serene Morskie Oko. In recent years Żoliborz has also been gaining popularity, as more restaurants and shops move out of the city center. And don’t forget to cross the river to