The upcoming solar eclipse on Monday, April 8, will enthral skywatchers across North America. The very best views—by far—will be afforded only to those that have traveled into (or live in) the 115 miles wide path of totality that stretches from Mexico to Canada via parts of 15 U.S. states.
Where to Eat in Buenos Aires, According to Chef Elena Reygadas
21.03.2024 - 11:09 / cntraveler.com
When the founder of Buenos Aires' most celebrated restaurant, Don Julio, invites you to spend a few days eating with him, you go. That's how Mexican chef Elena Reygadas found herself in Argentina last August. “Pablo [Rivera] told me, You don't have to cook, but I want you to see our most important day—the carneada," says Reygadas. "It's when he and his partner Guido [Tassi] kill the pigs and make salami for their restaurant, but it's also a party for the people they love."
The day began at a farm just 45 minutes from the city center, with about 20 friends—all chefs and bakers, naturally—and 10 people cooking. “We ate like three different kinds of morcilla [blood sausage], even cold morcilla with nuts, stuff I've never tried before, and so many different wines from Argentina,” says Reygadas. "Before, I was never fond of Argentinian wines—I always thought they were very heavy and tannic—and I'm not a meat eater. However I really enjoyed [both] that day. It was like a learning process for me.”
The good eating continued back in the city, over five days of scouring bakeries and empanada shops, and finding the unexpected in vegetable-forward restaurants from next-gen chefs. By the time she returned to Mexico City—her suitcase packed with goods for her kitchen, and her daughters—she was a convert to the Porteño way of dining, in its many forms.
Below, Reygadas, who was named the World's Best Female Chef in 2023, shares the flavors she can't stop thinking about from the trip—and the low-key spots she now shares with all her friends.
What was the first thing you ate when you got off the plane?
We arrived quite late at night, so we had empanadas with carne cortada con cuchillo—it’s the most refined of empanadas because they cut the meat with a knife, instead of grinding it. I think that name is a beautiful way of distinguishing the type of empanada. I loved the spiciness and the cumin in the filling, with the flaky dough which is fried but not oily. After a long trip you don’t want to cook, you know? So we just sat down and drank wine and had a lot of empanadas from Don Julio at my friend Pablo's house.
What was your go-to breakfast each morning?
I'm a baker, and I love bread, so I always wanted to have medialunas in the morning. I wanted to understand them. I went to a couple of places, but I returned to the one I thought was the most amazing, a bakery called La Fuerza. These medialunas are very special. They're unique because thay are elongated, so one part of the medialunas is soft and the other is crunchy. That bakery has a lot of other sweet breads, too, and the alfajores were very nice.
What was your most anticipated meal of the trip?
It was Don Julio, because I knew Pablo of course, and because the
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