Our slow travel series explores how you can take more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus or bike – with tips on how to reach your no-fly destination, and what to see and do along the way. We asked Austin Bush to take the road less traveled route between Lisbon and Porto.
The typical route between Portugal’s two largest cities can be done by bus or train in around four hours. Yet these journeys are almost entirely inland, and they neglect that most important of Portuguese landscapes: the coast.
As the Atlantic Ocean almost seems to exist in the DNA of the Portuguese people, I wanted to travel between these cities in a way that made this element the centerpiece of the journey. So I followed a route between Lisbon and Porto that included overnight stays in three coastal towns. What I couldn’t have expected was that the trip would introduce me to three very different iterations of Portugal’s beautiful, diverse coastline.
My trip kicks off rather unceremoniously at Sete Rios bus station, just north of central Lisbon. I’ve booked a seat with Rede Expressos, a privately run bus service, for the hour-and-a-half ride to Peniche. The route is almost exclusively inland, with a brief crossing through Lisbon’s wine region. My first view of the Atlantic Ocean comes after ascending a hill in Lourinhã, just south of my destination.
Perched on an elevated, rocky peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic, Peniche has a historical center that’s dense and charming, fronted by the imposing Fortaleza de Peniche. Closed for renovations when we were in town, the fortress dates to the 16th century; during the 20th century, it was used as a prison for political prisoners during Portugal’s four decades-long dictatorship. When work is done, it will house a museum dedicated to the Portuguese who resisted fascism.
Eager to hit the coast, I leave my bags at the hotel and buy a ticket for a day trip to the Berlenga Islands. Located six miles off the coast of Peniche, the tiny archipelago has been attracting visitors since Phoenician times. Tickets for a variety of boats, fast and slow, are sold by several vendors at Peniche’s pier, and the trip takes at least 45 minutes. Visitors are relegated to Berlenga Grande, a dry and rocky island that’s home to a small beach and a variety of birds, as well as some easy, clear hiking trails. Backed by cliffs and fronted by azure waters, the walk to the 16th-century fortress is obligatory – it’s one of the most beautiful swimming holes I’ve ever been to. There’s an overpriced restaurant and snack bar at the pier, plus a bar at the fortress; a wiser move is to self-cater at Peniche’s excellent fresh market and bring a picnic with you to the island.
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When it comes to lie-flat luxury on planes, transatlantic long-haul airlines like Emirates, Qatar, and Virgin Atlantic dominate the market. But now JetBlue is upping its flatbed seat count on short-haul flights, raising the question: Could the airline be readying for its own transatlantic routes?
Without warning, Chef Patrick flicked his wrist and chocolate sauce flew across the table. As I and the other restaurant patrons jumped to cover the tops of our wine glasses, the chef smiled and began to throw together (literally) the night’s dessert on a white canvas, like an Italian Jackson Pollock. He sprinkled coffee cake and sunflower seed crumbs, then gently added lemon curd and cheesecake. For the finale, he slammed fist-sized tiramisu balls down on the table, sending chocolate debris flying across the canvas.
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Among a certain segment of travellers, cruising is sometimes maligned: the dismal buffet and watered-down cocktails. Those kitschy lounge acts. The contrived shore excursions. But that, as they say, was then.
Prepare for an assault on the senses. Southeast Asia has a bellyful of thundering motorbikes, fiery volcanic peaks, seething jungle temples and pungent markets. Yet we also love it for its squeaky-clean sands, barely believable islands and pagodas overlooking lily-topped lotus ponds. From temples to tropical rainforests, here are the top ten places to visit in Southeast Asia – as voted for by you.
If you've got wheels, wanderlust and a spot of time, a road trip in Europe offers the chance to see the continent at a more relaxed pace. From the sunny shores of Portugal to the dungeons of Dracula's castle in Transylvania in Romania, the following itineraries can be easily combined, shortened or altered to suit your wayfaring tastes. Here are 9 of the best road trips in Europe, a clutch of which also feature in our run-down of the best countries for summer in Europe.
Undiscovered Portugal is remarkably easy to find. Head east instead of west from Lisbon Airport. Drive over the Vasco da Gama bridge. And in no time you're in a landscape of cork trees, vineyards and nesting storks. Matthew Hancock, co-author of The Rough Guide to Portugal reveals his favourite places to get off the tourist trail and into undiscovered Portugal. All information in this article is taken from The Rough Guide to Portugal, your travel guide for Portugal.
Porto versus Lisbon? Both Portugal's main cities have a lot in common. And they both make great city breaks. But which city should you visit first? Here’s the lowdown. The information in this article is taken from The Rough Guide to Portugal, your essential guide for visiting Portugal.
It’s true that many of us are still stuck at home, reminiscing about swinging in a hammock and sipping a cocktail from a coconut. But tourist boards around the world have been hard at work, creating a range of imaginative virtual campaigns to keep travellers engaged and getting us excited about future trips. Here are 12 of the best “virtual tourism” campaigns to while away the sofa-bound days.
Portugal is less than three hours’ flight time from the UK, and you can get great deals on flights from the US. Moreover, once you get there, it is still a great and cheap destination in Europe. But if those reasons are not enough to persuade you, here are six more why Portugal is a must-try destination.