The business of cider – an alcoholic beverage produced by fermenting the juice of apples – is absolutely thriving in Virginia.
This is largely thanks to the growing number of cider producers taking a forensic approach to its production, whether it’s by analyzing flavor profiles to discover which added ingredients complement which types of cider, or studying which types of apple grow best in Virginia’s dense, fertile soils.
“In the past decade, the number of cideries in the US has jumped from 200 to 1200,” says Michelle McGrath, chief executive at the American Cider Association. “Currently, we’re seeing more producers going all out to understand apple varieties and their potential, and Virginia does this exceptionally well. These cideries thrive on experimentation – apple varieties, production techniques and packaging are always being explored.”
Diane Flynt, an expert on Virginia’s cider scene and founder of Virginia’s Foggy Ridge Cider, agrees. “A focus on experimentation and on the fruit and terroir is what distinguishes Virginia cider,” says Diane. “In the past 10 years, we’ve seen more cideries growing their own fruit and purchasing Virginia-grown apples. I think the trend is leaning towards cider that reflects the place, the varieties and the growing conditions, along with a preference for careful fermentation over excessive sweetening.”
Then again, Virginia has always had a history of apple-related innovation. The state's earliest cider fans include Thomas Jefferson and George Washington. In the late 1700s, they planted some of Virginia’s first apple trees – a varietal known as the Newtown Pippin – at a time when hops reigned supreme, fuelled partly by German migrants’ love of beer.
The apples were a hit, not just in America but worldwide. Fans included Queen Victoria, who removed the import tax on the Pippin varietal in 1838. Today, Virginia ranks sixth when it comes to the US states that grow the most apples, although until recently they were primarily used in baked goods. Today, the growing number of cider-makers championing Virginia-grown apples has helped put the state on the cider-making map.
A great spot to kick off an apple-themed exploration of Virginia is Potter's Craft Cider, an innovative cidery tucked inside a century-old former church near Charlottesville, Virginia. What Thomas Jefferson and George Washington would make of the agave-infused ciders on offer in the taproom here, we’ll never know, but they’d almost certainly approve.
Potter's is a fitting place to find out what sets Virginia’s cider scene apart. Founders Tim Edmond and Dan Potter met at Princeton University and bonded over home brewing, and their experimental approach is one that’s being echoed by many of the area’s cider
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