Once war-torn, now sublime, Vietnam is long, lovely and languorous.
21.07.2023 - 08:48 / roughguides.com
Korean cuisine is world-famous – and with good reason. It's this wonderful food that keeps dragging our author Martin Zatko back to Korea. Here he rounds up some of his favourite eating spots from around the country.
It’s impossible to believe that Buddhist monks really eat this well – even at Jogyesa, Seoul’s most important temple, which sits just across the road from this highly attractive restaurant. While calling it “temple food” may be a bit of a stretch, what draws people here are the superbly crafted vegetarian meals, all organic, all made on site. Dishes vary by the week, but regular favourites include bellflower salad, stuffed lotus, shiitake broth and their hugely photogenic wafer-thin layers of tangerine. This may sound light, but the dishes just keep on arriving. Prepare to leave full.
An enduring favourite, this restaurant has been increasing in popularity with each passing year, thanks to a winning location by Gongju’s wonderful Baekje-dynasty castle, and to the gigantic ssambap banquets on offer. Your table – almost every inch of it – will be covered with traditional goodies like grilled fish, seared duck meat, soybean broth, tofu slices, soy-marinated black beans, spicy crab and fern bracken – usually around twenty separate side dishes, plus a whole tree’s worth of leaves to eat them with. Prices are very low for the size and quality of the meal, and for a little more you can have your dishes covered with edible flowers.
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This list wouldn't be complete without the inclusion of one of Korea’s zany, fascinating marketplaces. While Busan’s wonderful Jagalchi fish market shouldn't be missed, Seoul's Gwangjang still tops it. There are all sorts of weird and wonderful things available in these covered arcades; ordering is usually as simple as pointing at what you’d like. If you're in a refined mood then head for a place selling yukhoe (similar to steak tartare), but usually the best bet is to race straight to the very centre of the market for some bindaeddeok (fried mung-bean pancakes). Come with friends and you'll find the bottles of makgeolli (a sweet, creamy rice wine) soon start to add up.
Abai Maeul, a tiny island forming part of Sokcho city, is the top place in Korea for sundae. The term has nothing to do with ice cream here – it’s a sort of blood sausage in which steamed intestines are stuffed with glass noodles, kimchi, soybean paste and goodness knows what else. Some things simply taste better than they sound. The Abai Sundae experience begins with a truly bizarre ferry trip to the island – primarily used by residents of the island, it’s not so much a ferry as a floating metal platform, literally winched along by two men holding what look like giant tuning forks. The
Once war-torn, now sublime, Vietnam is long, lovely and languorous.
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