On an ice-crusted ridge 3,000 feet above the angry swell of the South Atlantic, Emma Nicholson takes a deep breath behind her respirator, checks her climbing harness, and steps inside the gaping mouth of an active volcano.
10 unmissable chef's tables around the world
09.10.2023 - 08:41 / nationalgeographic.com / Gordon Ramsay
The chef’s table has grown up. Once a behind-the-scenes peek for favoured diners squeezed into a hot corner of a busy kitchen, it’s now front-row seats. Dishes are presented to diners by the chefs, who go on to explain where ingredients have come from and what has been done to transform them. And forget menus — the chefs are free to be guided by their creativity. One of the biggest inspirations for this boom is the Japanese art of omakase. This style of dining leaves the choice of dishes largely to the chef — the direct translation is ‘I leave it up to you’ — and was born out of Japan’s financial boom in the 1990s, when newly minted diners were embarrassed about their lack of menu knowledge and deferred to the chef. From these origins, the chef’s table has become about the pursuit of perfection, eating the best ingredients served in peak condition, expertly prepared right in front of diners.
She ruled the roost at Gordon Ramsay’s three Michelin-starred restaurant before striking out on her own in Notting Hill in 2017, winning back all three stars for her County Antrim-inspired cuisine. The chef’s table seats up to 10 with only a huge glass window to separate diners from the kitchen action for the ultimate ringside view. From £215.
Sat Bains’s eponymous two-Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms offers highly inventive plates that are well worth the trip to Nottingham. Sat bewitches from the start with innovative dishes such as Cornish crab with brown butter ice cream, and smoked eel with truffle, apple and turnip. These are best eaten on the ‘kitchen bench’, his more egalitarian take on the chef’s table, with highchairs and a wooden bench offering uninterrupted views of the bustling pastry kitchen. From £165.
Larger than your average counter-style chef’s table, this 28-seat experience is grouped around the busy kitchen, where head chef Micha Schäfer and co-star Billy Wagner lead the German capital’s vanguard of seemingly minimal intervention cooking that celebrates hyper-local produce (same goes for the wine list), as a number of chefs serve up their own dishes and explain their thinking. From €175 (£150).
This hallowed, three-Michelin-starred restaurant — the entrance of which is through the doors of a supermarket in Hell’s Kitchen — is reopening in October, after a short hiatus. Cruise the aisles and you’ll eventually find your host, who’ll lead you to one of 20 seats grouped around the sleek counter. Once there, you’ll be served a sublime multi-course tasting menu full of luxe ingredients. From €430 (£345).
It might be in its 18th year, but this legendary spot is still causing a sensation with its multi-sensory menu that that, in the words of founder and head chef Grant Acatz, ‘combines fine
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