The scent of burning wood filled my nostrils as I pushed through the large paned doors of Fore Street in Portland, Maine. The restaurant, with its tavern-like atmosphere and rustic wood and brick accents, instantly felt welcoming.
17.09.2024 - 15:06 / lonelyplanet.com
Sep 16, 2024 • 6 min read
Every winter, travelers from across the Pacific Northwest and beyond make their way into the Cascade Mountains of Washington to visit Leavenworth, a remote alpine community that’s known for its civic enthusiasm for all things Christmas – and German.
Here you’ll find a large central square flanked with Fachwerk-style structures, beer gardens adorned with blue-and-white Bavarian burning flags and hand-painted ye olde signage on everything from storefronts to gas station signs.
However, unlike many Euro-style towns in the US, Leavenworth was not founded by Germans looking to recreate a bit of the old country in the New World. Rather, this former logging town got a facelift in the 1960s, in an effort to attract tourists. And it worked.
While Leavenworth is best known for its Christmas-related attractions (after all, who can resist a Bavarian Christmas, especially if gluhwein and gingerbread are involved?), it’s very much a year-round destination.
The holiday season in Leavenworth is a particularly popular time to visit, as it’s when the annual Christmastown festivities take place. Expect everything from strolling carolers to gingerbread house displays along with a Christmas market, photo ops with Santa Claus and possible Krampus sightings. Holiday lights illuminate the town from Thanksgiving through February, so even if you don’t make it to town before December 25th, you can still get a hefty dose of Yuletide cheer.
If you’re more of a fair-weather traveler, plan your Leavenworth visit for July or August, when the weather is typically warm enough for camping, hiking, and even swimming at nearby Lake Wenatchee. Come in the fall for the annual Oktoberfest celebrations, complete with requisite Bavarian music and free-flowing beer. Or beat the crowds and come in the spring. While the weather can be a gamble, hotel rates tend to run a bit lower.
You can get a feel for Leavenworth, in all of its faux-Bavarian glory, in just one day, but two days will allow you to slow down and relax a bit. If you come during the warm summer season, give yourself at least three full days in Leavenworth so that you’ll have enough time to explore local attractions and spend time out in nature.
Yes, getting to Leavenworth is easy, particularly if you have a car (just don’t forget chains or snow tires if you’re visiting during the winter). The town is fairly compact, so if you’re staying near the town square, it’s best to leave your car at your hotel and then head out on foot. If you don't have a car, or would prefer not to drive, you can also take Amtrak's Empire Builder train, which connects Chicago to Seattle, and get off at Leavenworth’s Icicle Station.
It always feels a tad Christmasy in Leavenworth, and
The scent of burning wood filled my nostrils as I pushed through the large paned doors of Fore Street in Portland, Maine. The restaurant, with its tavern-like atmosphere and rustic wood and brick accents, instantly felt welcoming.
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