A first-timer’s guide to Reykjavík

14.06.2024 - 12:23 / lonelyplanet.com

Jun 14, 2024 • 9 min read

You may have seen pictures of Reykjavík’s brightly colored houses tiered along the shore, the vibrant cafes and bars in Reykjavik 101 (the centre of the city) or drone footage of fireworks over the ziggurat of Hallgrímskirkja, slicing the skyline. Iceland’s capital promises all of this and more.

Reykjavík is full of life year-round. Around 60% of the country’s population lives in the capital region, making the most of their long winters with superb arts and crafts, an excellent live-music scene and world-class restaurants, paired with humble hot dog stands. And let’s not forget the toasty hot springs, perfect for soaking and taking the chill out of your bones after a long walk.

Combine your city break with a day trip, or more, to explore the volcanoes, waterfalls and glaciers that radiate out across this splendid, welcoming island. 

The streets of Reykjavík fill right up from June to August when visitors flock to Iceland for its warm(ish) summer season, long days, and the access the season brings to the countryside. Some of the most extreme mountain roads (called F roads in Iceland) only open from mid- to late-June and close by the end of August when the ice and snow starts to accumulate again. The downside? Prices are at their highest and you need to have booked at least six months in advance for good accommodation, and the best deals on car hire and the most coveted tours.

Spring and autumn are a chance to visit when the crowds are fewer so these big open spaces seem more your own and you share the streets of the capital more with Reykjavikers. The weather is variable – but really, it can be all year round – so pack accordingly, but prices are softer and availability more kind. Also, you can still access much of the country.

Winter is the province of darkness and austere adventure. Full daylight hours are miniscule – just 3 or 4 hours – but the atmospheric sunrises and sunsets make for great viewing, and it’s the chance to see the Northern Lights, too. Many country hotels and restaurants close or reduce services (especially over the December holidays), but Reykjavík itself remains open for all comers. Prices are at their most affordable.

Well, I’d say forever. But if you have to limit your trip, you could soak up a lot of the Reykjavík vibe and hit its top sights in a matter of two or three days. You’d get to have leisurely coffees and kleinur (bow-shaped donuts) or ástarpungar ("love ball" donut spheres with raisins), shop design boutiques, visit art museums and galleries, plus get all the selfies – from churchside to the Sun Voyager statue and Old Harbour.

Then I’d surely suggest another two days, minimum, to get out into the countryside or go on a whale watching trip and other