In our A Total Trip series, writers document what they spent on a recent getaway. In this edition, Lonely Planet guidebook writer, Kerry Walker, shows us how much a coastal family break costs in Pembrokeshire, Wales.
28.07.2023 - 15:35 / theguardian.com
Any summer’s day on top of Yr Wyddfa you may be forgiven for thinking all is well with Welsh tourism. People are queuing to touch the summit cairn, the cafe is rammed and the railway fully booked.
But the Welsh affairs committee at Westminster this week voiced serious concerns. It pointed out that in 2019, international visitors spent about £515m in Wales, less than 2% of the £28bn they spent in the UK overall. Closer scrutiny revealed other worrying signs: in 2022, there were almost 2.8bn day trips taken by British residents but only 6% happened in Wales, and on those visits people spent less than elsewhere in Britain.
For a country with so much spectacular mountain scenery and coastline, the committee report on Wales makes painful reading, especially since world tourism surveys regularly show that “natural beauty” is the key driver for visitors.
Rowland Rees-Evans, the chair of Mid-Wales Tourism, said: “You have to look at the infrastructure, it is lagging behind. And then there’s a lack of communication between the tourism industry, the various marketing bodies and government. If we could work together, the potential is massive.”
This view is echoed by others working in tourism. Richard Rees runs Celtic Deep, which takes visitors out to see marine wildlife around Pembrokeshire. He said: “There’s a lack of awareness of what amazing world-class wildlife experiences we have here: from puffin colonies on Skomer Island to sightings of tuna, whales, sharks and dolphins. There’s a huge market that is going untapped.”
So what are the tourists missing out on in Wales?
Infrastructure is often cited as weak, but in fact Wales has several remarkable railways. Board the Cambrian line from Shrewsbury down to Aberystwyth and you pass through stunning mountain scenery and, in season, can spot ospreys nesting near Dyfi junction. The northern branch to Pwllheli then rattles past several remarkable coastal sights, including the Mawddach estuary and Harlech Castle. Further south, the Heart of Wales line, another underfunded and creaky public service, is also one of the world’s finest rail routes.
Suzy Davies, the chair of the Wales Tourism Alliance, said: “We have poor quality carriages and unreliable services. But the routes are magnificent.” These lines also connect to some of the world’s finest collection of heritage steam services: the Ffestiniog, Talyllyn and the Vale of Rheidol railways. Other lines are dotted all over, from the Brecon Mountain Railway in the south to the Welsh Highland up north.
Wales is one of only a handful of countries that can claim to have a fully operational footpath right around itself, and what a gem it is. Start with the 870-mile coastal route that takes in the glories of the Gower,
In our A Total Trip series, writers document what they spent on a recent getaway. In this edition, Lonely Planet guidebook writer, Kerry Walker, shows us how much a coastal family break costs in Pembrokeshire, Wales.
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