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A Long Walk on a Small(ish) Island
08.09.2023 - 09:17 / nytimes.com
Never underestimate the difficulty of a flat trail over a great distance. After my first five-hour day following the Island Walk, a new 435-mile trail that rings Prince Edward Island, in Canada’s smallest province, I limped into Points East Coastal Inn in bayside St. Peter’s Bay with a blister cooking on my right sole and a paralyzing need to rest barefoot until checkout the next morning.
A veteran of the Camino de Santiago, the long-distance pilgrimage trail through northern Spain, I had done this sort of thing before. But like all travel-related hassles that I relegate to the trash bin of my memory — flight delays, security searches, sand flies at the beach — I had forgotten about the relentless demands of walking when your feet throb and the scenery barely changes in the course of a day. I had forgotten what a walking meditation feels like.
Returning from the Camino in 2016, Bryson Guptill, an island resident who founded the walk, thought, “Why not here?” he told me as I rested shoeless that June afternoon on the inn’s porch. “It’s an island and you can walk in a big circle, when none of these long-distance walks are circular. And you’ve got shoreline with great vistas no matter what part of the island you’re on.”
Designed largely by linking existing trails and roads, the Island Walk was set to debut in 2020 when the pandemic struck. It finally opened in August 2021, and attracted about 50 walkers that year. Late in 2022, Hurricane Fiona, a Category 4 storm, ravaged the island, destroying an estimated 40 percent of its trees, wreckage that made parts of the trail impassable.
This year, 300 people have registered on the walk’s website.
“The challenge in P.E.I. is it’s not a large population and you’re basically walking to rural areas,” Mr. Guptill said, noting that about half of the trail’s 32 way points or sections, which are roughly 12 to 15 miles apart, don’t offer handy accommodations.
He believes that will change in the coming years. Already, since the walk’s opening, there are new hostel accommodations at Ned’s Landing at Spry Point, southeast of Charlottetown, the capital. Bus service has expanded in rural areas, helping walkers travel to way points. The tour company Experience PEI coordinates walking routes (starting at 350 Canadian dollars, or about $260, for seven days). D.I.Y. walkers can book shuttles between the trail and lodgings through Bill’s Van Service and Cycling Tours PEI.
Lodging, shuttles and food add up. Cost estimates for walking the trail range from about 170 dollars a day to 5,000 or 6,000 dollars for the month required to complete it, according to users of the Island Walk’s active Facebook group.
“The Island Walk’s success is way ahead of the infrastructure,” said Sarah
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