It’s easy to pigeonhole England’s south-west as overrun with visitors, yet there is a national park here that is one of the UK’s least visited. The reason perhaps lies with its location, in the shadow of its Devon neighbour. Indeed, when I told one person I was heading to Exmoor for a break, they queried: “Do you mean Dartmoor?”
Straddling Somerset and Devon, this national park spans 693 sq km of high moorland covered in heather and gorse, steeply-wooded coombes (valleys), crystal-clear rivers, medieval bridges and fords. And then there’s the dramatic coastline too, with mainland Britain’s highest sea cliff and the second-highest tidal range in the world (after the Bay of Fundy in Canada) both found here.
The park’s beauty once attracted the cream of the 19th-century literary set. Poets Samuel Taylor Coleridge, William Wordsworth and Robert Southey – often associated with the Lake District – all spent time in Exmoor, while the popular RD Blackmore novel Lorna Doone was set here, and still draws visiting fans to this day.
What was once a royal hunting reserve was designated a national park in 1954 after various schemes to develop it for agriculture failed. By this time, large areas of the park were already owned by the National Trust. Today it’s dotted with farms and a few small villages, but most locals live in three centres on the coast or in the market town of Dulverton on the southern edge of the park. This lack of habitation means there is little light pollution. Not surprisingly, Exmoor was designated as Europe’s first International Dark Sky Resort in 2011, and many visit purely to stargaze, even if the area’s cloudy skies sometimes scupper their fun.
The high moorlands are also home to the largest concentration of red deer in England. Having said that, they are very shy and extremely well camouflaged, so some visitors never spot them. But if you visit in October, you’ll hear rutting stags bellowing across the heather.
Perhaps the animal most associated with Exmoor is its eponymous pony. Once reduced to just dozens in number, these creatures nearly went extinct during the Second World War when they were cruelly used as target practice by local soldiers or, as rationing took hold, eaten. Efforts to preserve them are paying off, though they are still considered ‘threatened’. Small, tough and with a very distinctive beauty, their characteristics could be said to match those of Exmoor itself.
How to spend 48 hours in Exmoor Day 1
Potter the historic market town of Dulverton, which is home to Exmoor’s oldest medieval bridge and the National Park Information Centre. Next, head out onto the moors. Whether on foot, horseback or on a safari tour, you’ll find many of the UK’s top trails here, some of
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With curved architecture and a multicoloured mural encompassing the exterior, Towner Eastbourne is an eye-catching stalwart of the south coast’s art scene. This year it celebrates its centenary with Towner 100: The Living Collection, which has accompanying text panels helping youngsters to learn their way around the exhibits. A 20-minute stroll west leads you to Holywell Retreat, a shingle beach with rockpooling and a tea chalet offering breakfast or lunch with a view. Admission free, townereastbourne.org.uk; family room, B&B, from £146, lansdownehotel.co.uk (gallery visitors to the hotel can claim a £20 discount)
In our A Total Trip series, writers document what they spent on a recent getaway. In this edition, Lonely Planet guidebook writer, Kerry Walker, shows us how much a coastal family break costs in Pembrokeshire, Wales.
It has the country pubs, antique shops and honey-hued market towns of the Cotswolds, and the chilled, waterside vibe of the Lake District, and yet many haven’t heard of it. Rutland, England’s smallest county, takes its Latin motto to heart: multum in parvo, much in little. Midway between Cambridge and Nottingham in the East Midlands, with the 3,100-acre inland sea of Rutland Water at its heart, it’s a place that feels made for a restorative weekend break — and with countryside bolthole The Barnsdale getting a recent makeover, there’s never been a better time to go.
As I bowled along the roads linking Herefordshire’s ‘Black and White Villages’ (named in honour of their two-tone buildings), I believed, for a second, in time travel. Here, in one of England’s least populated counties, little appeared to have changed for decades, centuries even.
When the U.S. National Park Service (NPS) proposed drastic hikes to admission fees last fall, the reaction was swift and negative. It seems the NPS heard what people will saying.
Ah, college spring break. The noblest rite of passage for our nation’s future leaders. With March around the corner, college students across the country are preparing for a week of fun and relaxation (much of which their parents will hopefully never hear about). From traditional party destinations to destinations you may not think of as typical spring break locals, here are the best spring break destinations.
Glacier National Park is one of the most gorgeous parks in the national park system. The sprawling park is in northern Montana and is home to some of the oldest glaciers in the US — not to mention wildlife like grizzly and brown bears, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, pumas, wolves, elk, moose, and more. The park has gorgeous day hikes running between half a mile or 20 miles, and some of the best backcountry backpacking in the US. You can even hike from the US into Waterton Lakes National Park, the attached national park just on the other side of the US-Canada border.
Abutting the US border with Canada, North Cascades National Park is a land of contrasts. Cerulean blue lakes sit at the foot of mountains forested in deep green pines, with their peaks capped in snow and pointing to the heavens. The park mirrors the various landscapes of the Pacific Northwest, shifting from mountainous areas dominated by rain showers and heavy snowfall to arid plateaus cut by glaciers since melted into alpine rivers and lakes. The park is remote, accessible only by the beautiful North Cascades Highway or from hiking trails to the north.
Alfred the Great made Winchester England’s first capital in 871, and the Hampshire city long remained at the centre of the action. Narrow streets of medieval and Georgian buildings hint at its past. The nearby South Downs National Park can also be accessed via the South Downs Way. A 100-mile-long walking and cycling route, the trail starts in Winchester and stretches to Eastbourne.