During a recent trip within the U.S., the car’s GPS navigation system took me on an unexpected route between Albuquerque, New Mexico, and Basalt, Colorado. It steered me through a small town named Paonia in western Colorado, where I happened to have spent time—decades ago—as an intern for an environmental newspaper. Wanting to see this town again I veered in. Remembering that this region apparently now has a reputation for producing wine, I parked outside a wine and liquor store and purchased some bottles.
The owner recommended a wine from Paonia that—earlier this year—had gained statewide recognition. This Alfred Eames Cellars 2019 Carmena won top prize of a ‘double gold’ in the 2023 Governor’s Cup Wine Collection winners. I bought that bottle, as well as a bottle of Eames Pinot Noir, and looked forward to tasting both.
According to the Colorado Wine Board, winemaking in the state began on the Western Slope (the 40% of the state located west of the Rocky Mountain ‘continental divide’) over a century ago, although vineyards were replaced with orchards during Prohibition. Wines here have traditionally been made not only from grapes but also from other fruits. Colorado vineyards generally constitute the highest elevations vineyards in North America at between 4,500 and 7,000 feet (1,370 and 2,100 meters) above sea level.
Located in the internal continental U.S., the state of Colorado has an average ground elevation of 6,800 feet (2,074 meters) above sea level, which is higher than the highest points in 36 of all 50 states of the U.S. In other words, grapes here must fare well at altitude.
American Vititcultural Areas (AVAs) are designated by the federal Tax and Trade Bureau, which regulates the production of alcoholic beverages. There are two AVAs in Colorado—The Grand Valley AVA along the Colorado River, and The West Elks AVA. In the Grand Valley, vineyard elevations are between about 4,000 and 4,500 feet (1,200 and 1,400 meters) and the Colorado River moderates temperatures while river winds reduce humidity. The region gets as much sunshine as Napa Valley, Bordeaux or Tuscany—but in a shorter time. The similarities to the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains in Spain also makes this region favorable for the Tempranillo grape.
In the West Elks AVA, elevations of vineyards are generally between 5,400 and 7,000 feet (1,650 and 2,100 meters) above sea level, and there are fewer growing days—making the cooler region favorable for Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.
Besides these two AVAs, there are ample other wine growing regions in Colorado—including McElmo Canyon and Montezuma County, South Grand Mesa, Fremont Peak, Olathe and Montrose Counties and the Front Range.
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