Groningen: an ancient city with a young heart in the Netherlands
21.07.2023 - 08:25
/ roughguides.com
/ Art
Tucked away in the far northeast corner of the Netherlands is the erstwhile Hanseatic city of Groningen . Dripping in history, this charming provincial capital with bubbling arts scene is awash with green spaces, cultural attractions, fine restaurants and gabled houses reflected in the miles of scenic canals. Gilly Pickup explores this little Dutch gem.
Groningen is sometimes referred to as the most Italian city north of the Alps and it can’t be denied that Italian architects have left their mark. Fine examples of of this are all around from Alessandro Mendini’s Groninger Museum and the Waagstraat Complex by Adolpho Natalini, to the public library by Giorgio Grassi.
One in five residents in Groningen is a student, and with this comes a flurry of bicycles and bells on the streets. The centre is almost car-free with a network of cycle paths and bus lanes and plenty of cycle parking. There’s little wonder that Groningen has the highest quality of life ranking in the Netherlands and 97 percent of inhabitants say they are satisfied with living here.
Historic ships in the Hoge der aa canal of Groningen, The Netherlands © Marc Venema/Shutterstock
There are a score of brilliant museums for those with a lust for learning. The Grafisch Museum is for anyone who loves typefaces and scripts, bookbinding and every printing technology under the sun. Better still, many of the old presses and graphic machines are still in working order.
There is the University Museum too, which describes itself as ‘a museum for man, nature and science’. If you like all that’s gory, you’ll love the torso which was frozen then sawn into sections, plus the blackened lung – bound to make smokers think again.
Meanwhile the Groninger Museum, an oddly shaped modernist structure which may not be to everyone’s taste, houses archaeological finds, portraits of prominent Groningers from days of yore and examples of regional arts and crafts including Groningen silver.
Standing 97m-high, the Martinitoren (or Martini Tower – named after the city's patron saint, St Martin) has kept a watchful eye on the city for more than five hundred years. If you want to hoof it to the top you are rewarded by views that are riveting from all angles. Locals refer to the structure as ‘d’Olle Grieze’ meaning the ‘Old Grey One’ due to the colour of the weather beaten sandstone.
A church of the same name, Martinikerk, was where – or so the story goes – pilgrims in the middle ages came to view a relic, the arm of John the Baptist. There again, several different locations lay claim to portions of John including Jerusalem, Alexandria and Bulgaria, while Damascus, Rome and Munich say they have his head.
The Martinikerk's organ has its own true claim to fame. It dates from