How a Midnight Feast Became a Month-Long Dining Extravaganza in New Orleans
06.12.2023 - 23:13
/ atlasobscura.com
/ Christmas Eve
/ Long
As a city known for its festivals and food, it’s no wonder New Orleans has a special gustatory way of celebrating the Christmas holidays. Although modern festivities no longer require celebrants to stay up all night, revelers can still indulge in the nearly 200 year old feast of Réveillon every December, as the Catholic French Creole inhabitants of the city did before them.
The first written mentions of Réveillon in France date back to the 19 th century, when Catholics enjoyed a doubly festive evening: extended religious worship followed by an indulgent meal at home. Traditionally, the French celebrate Réveillon on both Christmas Eve, following Midnight Mass, and New Year’s Eve, prior to dancing in the streets.
The word “réveillon” derives from the French verb “réveiller,” which means “to awaken.” These classic French feasts included oysters, foie gras, escargot, and roasted fowl, as well as regional specialties. In Provence, they served 13 desserts: one for Jesus and one for each of his 12 Apostles.
As waves of immigrants journeyed from France to New Orleans in the 18 th and 19 th centuries, they brought their traditions with them. The large Catholic French Creole population in New Orleans in the mid-1800s felt right at home attending midnight mass at Saint Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter and breaking their Christmas Eve fast upon returning home. Their Réveillon menu featured both breakfast and dinner items, as the meal took place in the wee hours of the morning, including egg dishes, breads and puddings, as well as turtle soup, oysters, and grillades of veal.
According to the household budget, other delicacies were served, such as beef daube glacée , chicken and oyster gumbo, game pies, soufflés, candied fruits, and special desserts like the bûche de Noël (Yule log) or towers of croquembouche . Such luxuries were reserved for these very special holiday celebrations, and adults partook in wines, cordials, brandy, cherry bounce, frothy eggnog, fortified wines, and coffee to accompany the feast. After several hours at the table, the women and children would retire to bed, and the men would smoke cigars, drink, and converse until the sun came up.
While some traditional Réveillon dishes are still familiar to modern diners, others, such as daube glacée , are perhaps less so. Beef daube is a slow-cooked stew, and cold daube ( daube glacée ) is an innovative French Creole variation on the dish that is served cold, sliced on crackers or French bread. The first Creole cookbook ever written, Lafcadio Hearn’s La Cuisine Creole , was published in 1885 and includes a daube glacée recipe. Contemporary cooks can look to Chef Isaac Toups’ daube glacé recipe to make a version at home.