I'd been living in London for just under a year when my parents came to visit in January 2020.
03.08.2023 - 14:41 / lonelyplanet.com / Luke Waterson
A reader asks whether it’s possible to traverse much of Scotland in just one week. Our expert has some thoughts.
Lonely Planet’s team of writers and editors is here to address your travel problems and provide tips to help you plan a hassle-free trip. Lonely Planet author Luke Waterson, who has written three guidebooks and numerous travel articles on Scotland. helped us out with this Scottish query.
Question: We are spending a week in Scotland. Is it possible to do Inverness, Portree on the Isle of Skye and a few days in Edinburgh within this time? If not, what else do you recommend? We love scenery and historical sites.
Luke Waterson: All these are worthy destinations for a best-of-Scotland trip. Hitting them all up in a week can certainly be done – but it will be fairly frantic. For the sake of a less hectic holiday, and so that you remember Scotland as fondly as possible, consider a couple of itinerary edits.
While it doesn’t seem that way on a map, Edinburgh, Inverness and Portree on the Isle of Skye a far apart indeed in terms of time: driving non-stop between the three alone takes a good seven hours – and that’s assuming the going’s good. You mention Inverness as a starting point, yet logistically this would come in the middle of any itinerary featuring these places. Given Edinburgh’s better international flight, rail and road connections, it makes sense to start your adventure there.
After some time in one of Europe’s most dazzling capital cities, the best option is to rent a car for exploring everywhere else on your trip, given where you want to go and the time you have. You’d need to leave Edinburgh on day three in order to spend two nights in Inverness, then on day five leave by lunchtime to drive the three hours to Portree for a late-afternoon arrival. Day five evening and all of day six could indeed be spent in Portree, before you’ll have to head back fairly early on day seven to make onward connections from Edinburgh (or Inverness or Glasgow, the other two transport hubs you could use). However, I’m guessing you will be wanting to see some of Skye if you’ve made it this far. And here is the caveat: the roads get slower, the scenery more staggering and the desire to stop en route more frequent…meaning you are sure to be frustrated and frazzled by the tightness of your schedule.
My suggestion: skip Inverness. It’s nice enough if you need to be there, but the reason most folks visit is to take a cruise on Loch Ness, one Scotland’s most underwhelming sights. It’s not unattractive – just way down the league table of Scotland’s loveliest lochs, despite the huge crowds it attracts.
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