I meet Donald Macauley, the 37-year-old founder of Sierra Leone's first surf school, along a sunny swath of silky yellow sand at Bureh Beach, a surfing destination on the Western Peninsula where he’s been catching waves for more than 20 years. Macauley learned how to surf from a British soldier; before he had access to a proper board, he and other local teens would ride wooden surfboards shaped from busted fishing boats. In 2012, he launched Bureh Beach Surf Club—whose slogan, “Di waves dem go mak u feel fine,” says it all—and today he leads a handful of instructors, mentors street kids, and rallies behind some of Sierra Leone’s most promising young talents. Among them, I meet 25-year-old Kadiatu “KK” Kamara, the country’s preeminent female surfer. “My dream is to teach more girls in Sierra Leone how to surf,” says Kamara, who herself learned at Bureh Beach eight years ago and hopes to someday open her own school. When girls sign up for lessons, she refuses their money. “It’s my responsibility,” she says solemnly. “I want to motivate them not to be afraid of the water.”
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The country’s preeminent female surfer, Kadiatu “KK” Kamara, at Bureh Beach Surf Club.
In the ’70s and ’80s, beaches like Bureh would have drawn a small number of (mostly French) backpackers and beach bums to this tiny West African nation, bordered by Guinea, Liberia, and the Atlantic Ocean. Its nascent tourism sector, however, was decimated by the civil war that lasted from 1991 until 2002, leaving more than 120,000 people dead and displacing another 2 million. A headline-grabbing Ebola outbreak from 2014 to 2016 killed an additional 20,000 Sierra Leoneans and saw scores of international investors and NGOs pull out. More recently, the country has been pummeled by calamitous floods and mudslides, hammered with sky-high unemployment and spiraling inflation, and roiled by political instability, including protests following last month’s contested presidential election. I arrived in Sierra Leone this spring to explore a nation in the throes of transition—and to meet people like Macauley and Kamara who are working tirelessly to reimagine its future.
Driving upcountry to Kabala, the country’s agricultural heartland, my guide Peter Momoh Bassie of Tourism Is Life Tours recounts harrowing memories of his time as a former child soldier. He was 11 when the war began; he lost both parents and countless neighbors and friends to the fighting, and went on to spend six years serving the rebels against his will. The guerrillas would force Bassie and other children in the SBU, or Small Boy
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The Gullah Geechee are direct descendants of the first Black people forcibly transported from Africa to the US, who arrived in southeastern port cities such as Charleston, South Carolina. Several isolated communities survive today in coastal cities stretching from Florida to North Carolina, including Georgia’s Sea Islands.
Sugar-dusted beignets, punchy rye-laced sazeracs, and month-long Mardi Gras celebrations — the sounds and flavours of New Orleans are impossible to ignore.
It’s 11pm in Bristol Harbour and the boat is rocking. Hometown shanty band The Longest Johns are on stage, belting out renditions of old maritime tunes while a sold-out, ale-fuelled crowd are singing along with gusto. The night might be a cold one, but inside is a world of festival lighting and fogged-up specs. The harbour waters lap against the hull as songs of distant seas and drunken sailors are roared out in unison.
More than 60 years after Jackie Kennedy first visited this small island in the Cyclades and thrust it into the limelight, the pull of glittering Mykonos is still strong. During summer, the jet and yacht set cruise in alongside throngs of travelers eager to party, snap Instagram photos, and see and be seen. And with the island's sprawling and sandy beaches (a rare find in the rocky Cyclades) it’s not hard to see why. But the island has a long-beloved, quieter side than the beach party scene would lead you to believe.
Every morning, the French-Iranian contemporary artist Sassan Behnam-Bakhtiar enters his atelier nestled in the South of France, overlooking the stunning expanse of the ocean. Surrounded by nature, he immerses himself in meditation. This practice, honed over many years, has led him to his current success, transforming pain into purpose and creating a unique form of living art that embodies the energy of nature. At the age of 39, Behnam-Bakhtiar has already built a solid foundation as an acclaimed artist (including solo exhibitions with Sotheby’s Monaco and Philips London), known for transmuting the natural world he inhabits into an artistic experience.
The classic travel guide is being overtaken on online marketplaces like Amazon by completely generic, AI-written ones — but there are a couple of ways to tell if the guide you're looking at is a fake.
Hanoi has always been a city of tales and legends. Its ancient name, Thang Long, which means “the Rising Dragon,” comes from a tale about Emperor Ly Thai To witnessing a golden dragon ascending when he moved the capital here in 1010. The city is now the heartland of Vietnamese literature — home to many of our finest writers, literary festivals and book fairs.
It happened at an indoor wall for the sport of “bouldering”. I was standing watching some athletic young men conquer a tricky route that was beyond my abilities, half-listening to their banter, when I suddenly understood what they were discussing. A proposal to climb outdoors. They had never done it. They dreamed of it, but were uncertain how to go about it.
Britain’s Monarch Airlines failed abruptly last week, leaving thousands of passengers stranded at resort destinations without a return flight. The British government is helping those travelers return home, but the airline shutdown raises the question of whether a similar collapse could happen elsewhere.