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30.08.2023 - 15:49 / lonelyplanet.com
There are ways to find lesser-traveled trekking routes to reach magnificent Machu Picchu. Here, our Peru expert Luke Waterson, who has contributed to four editions (and running) of the Lonely Planet Peru guide recommends a few.
Question: I want to go to Peru and hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, but I’ve heard it gets crowded. Is this the case? And are there any ways of avoiding the crowds, or alternative routes?
Luke Waterson: Avoiding the crowds at one of Latin America’s most popular attractions is not easy. But there are a few ways of shaking off the masses if a drop-dead-gorgeous trek through the Andes to spectacular Inca ruins is what you’re after.
A place is mind-bogglingly magnificent; thus, it attracts crowds. Such is the logic of all the world’s greatest sights, no? Machu Picchu is no exception. There are few spots in South America – or the world – that compare with the wonder of the 15th-century ridgetop Inca citadel emerging out of clouds after a hike or train ride through some of the most superlative Andean scenery around. And few destinations get so rammed with visitors, either.
If you include the summits flanking the citadel complex – Huayna Picchu, Cerro Machu Picchu and Huchuy Picchu – we’re talking almost 4000 visitors daily at the site, with plenty more cramming the gateway town of Aguas Calientes. The point? This is not a place to come for peace and quiet. And this has changed even since I first visited in 2004, when one was able to arrive at first light and see the ruins in a (relatively) tourist-free state. Which means that whatever I tell you here, those crowds will not go away: not at Machu Picchu itself, and not on the classic four-day Inca Trail trek to reach it – the most famous of the approaches by foot.
At the site itself, getting here early no longer means you’ll be (almost) alone, since others now follow the very same advice. (Admittedly, though, an early arrival still helps you beat the mid-morning to early-afternoon peak crowds.) Machu Picchu’s layout – narrow passageways, little level ground – means you will invariably feel somewhat bunched together with your fellow adventurers. Even scrambling up the iconic flanking peak Huayna Picchu – capped at 200 visitors daily – won’t grant you much solitude, as you squeeze past others on the narrow trail. However, at the other end of the complex Cerro Machu Picchu (Machu Picchu Mountain) actually offers more far-reaching views and is nowhere near as popular a hike.
But now that I’ve said that…
Because almost all visitors take the classic Inca Trail approach, the crowds will bother you less were you to take one of the less-frequented treks to the site. Peruvian authorities are mighty savvy at devising new ways of enticing
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