Let's assume you're planning a trip to Europe and want to include a visit to the United Kingdom. Should you plan to visit London at the start, in the middle or at the end of your trip? Does it even matter?
Human Sustainability Is The Star Ingredient At These Game-Changing Restaurants
19.02.2024 - 14:19 / forbes.com
Entertainment like The Bear, The Menu and Boiling Point isn’t wrong: Restaurant life can be brutal. The long and strange hours, the speed and the stress, and the culture of extreme commitment all too easily take their toll.
Many employees have had enough. Headlines around the world lament the lack of restaurant workers. Everyone seems to be constantly hiring, or trying to. But at the same time, a handful of high-end restaurants are taking the opposite tack. By doing the unthinkable, like closing on weekends or evenings, they’re not only retaining staff but also maintaining their profits.
A good example in my adopted hometown of Lisbon—a place not exactly known for putting workers’ quality of life first—is the vegetarian fine-dining restaurant Arkhe. When it closed last year for several months to relocate, the co-owners, chef João Ricardo Alves and maître d’hotel Alejandro Chávarro, rethought everything.
They limited their service to weekdays. No more lucrative Saturday nights; leap-of-faith Monday lunches instead. This wasn’t entirely altruistic: “The change saved my marriage,” says Alves, who has young children and had been spending Saturdays in the restaurant and Sundays sleeping off his exhaustion.
“Becoming parents changed the way we do things,” agrees Chávarro, who also started a family in the past few years. “We questioned why we’re doing this. We still want to come here, but we want it to be a healthy environment.”
That also created a healthy environment for the entire staff. Arkhe saw its employee turnover, “drama and turmoil” drop dramatically in the eight months since the new space opened—a big deal in a market where workers jump ship after a few weeks for a tiny pay raise.
And the choice of Monday over Saturday was in fact a calculated one. Both Alves and Chávarro had worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in France and seen that weekend guests tended to spend less and demand more. Likewise, at Arkhe, “the Monday clientele comes because they love food,” says Chávarro. “They’re more committed. They’re more intentional; they want the full experience.
“If you focus on opening days, you make a filter for who you want your guests to be,” he continues. “It’s a virtuous cycle. But you need to be courageous” to start.
In the opposite corner of Europe, the owners of Copenhagen’s two-star restaurant Jordnaer made a similar decision. Chef Eric Kragh Vildgaard and his wife, Tina Kragh Vildgaard, who runs the dining room, reduced their service to four dinners a week (Tuesday through Friday) to maintain their status as one of the world’s top restaurants while raising their six children and enjoying their family life.
“We are in a fortunate situation of being able to fill the dining room on a Tuesday,”
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