The sign on the outside of the Berlin restaurant NOname is very discreet—just NO in script. At first glance after entering, the interior looks pretty subtle as well: tables and curved black chairs, filmy white curtains lining the walls. But then on the back wall is an illustration of the restaurant’s motto No Limits, No Boundaries, No Name: a large mural of a model named Fräulein Fuchs in a black swimsuit tied with bondage ropes. Apparently, on certain nights, risqué programs in sync with the city’s racy reputation take place here. But so on every night does the creative, assured cooking in a six or eight course tasting menu that this year earned the four year old restaurant its first Michelin star. Edgy with excellent food, just like Berlin itself.
When I first went to Berlin in the mid-1990s, it was in the first wave of post-Wall transition with 200 cranes hovering over massive construction. Since then this artsy, energetic city has been in constant change although not in as visible a way as the cranes. A lively art scene, club scene, and in recent years restaurant scene has taken hold, partly driven by creative chefs from around the world and a zealous concentration on local ingredients.
As I discovered on a night out with nightlife/gastronomic guide Henrik Tidefjärd, owner of the lifestyle agency Berlinagenten, two year old Holly Gastrobar on a small street in the lively, multicultural district of Neukölln is worth finding and reserving in advance for its inventive dishes using mostly house made ingredients and many different preparation techniques. Even simple sounding vegetable dishes such as fermented fennel with harissa chutney and oyster mushrooms with brown butter, herb mayonnaise and truffle powder explode with flavor.
Farther north in the neighborhood of Prenzlauer Berg, another two year old, Café Frieda, is a very popular all day hangout for artisan coffee, pastries and some savory items such as a meatball croissant but it turns more gastronomically ambitious for dinner and weekend brunch. The menu changes daily but features dishes such as pork croquettes with rose shrimp, ricotta tortelli with white veal ragu and grilled whole red mullet with fermented tomato and crispy chili plus desserts such as tangelo and yuzu soft serve. Just opened restaurant The Pink Room is on the other side of the fun Bellboy Bar in Mitte and apart from its fanciful décor represents a fusion of two very different world cuisines: Levantine and Japanese, a collaboration between Michelin starred chef Gal Ben Moshe and Bellboy Hospitality Group head chef Paris Katsampis. The nine course menu features dishes such as tuna with vanilla ponzu, puffed grains, oranges, sumac and red veined sorrel but there’s a shorter
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