Rome in 5 Shops: handcrafted leather, ceramics and tiny treasures

03.01.2024 - 21:13 / lonelyplanet.com

In our 5 Shops series, we’ll point you in the direction of our favorite independent shops across some of the world's best cities. From food markets and bookshops to vintage and homegrown design stores, we’ve found a diverse and exciting mix of local retailers where you can pick up one-of-a-kind pieces.

I remember the first time I visited Rome after moving to Italy a decade ago. I’m originally from New York but was living on a farm in the Italian countryside as I wanted to take a break from the boundless energy of big cities. Turns out I couldn’t stay away for long. Rome vibrated with possibilities. Tied in knots by tram and train lines, to overflowed with people going in every direction all at once. It was exactly what I needed. 

Rome is a terrible place to visit and a wonderful place to live. It's the impossibility of seeing everything in the space of a week or month. It's tempting to throw one's hands in the air and give up. Then, when it's time to eat, dress, or spoil ourselves, we choose the path of least resistance. It's all too overwhelming.

Stay the course, however, and Rome will reveal itself. It overflows with color and creativity and compassion. It's the small moments you will remember. The discoveries of corner shops and market stalls in places you might have missed otherwise. Here are my five favorite shops.

When on vacation, it's tempting to fill our luggage with cheap souvenirs. Like many other cities, Rome's streets are laden with ubiquitous items that are easy to buy – and just as easy to forget. If you want something special to take home, visit Co.Ro Jewels on Via della Scrofa, not far from Piazza Navona. This female-run shop specializes in architectural jewelry and wearable art that replicates famous city sights like the Colosseum, the Pantheon’s Dome, and the Gazometro gas tower in Ostiense. They cost more than a novelty magnet but will last a lifetime.

The vine-covered cobbles of Monti have made it one of Rome’s most Instagrammable neighborhoods. Hordes of visitors come here to have their moment immortalized against its picturesque facades. But Monti's tiny shopfronts are more than just a mood board. Largely independent, many are full of one-of-a-kind designs. The best of which is Hang Roma on Via degli Zingari. Owner Federica handcrafts leather bags, belts, and pouches onsite and also showcases a great selection of local artists. Grab an artistic print from Sara Paglia’, or buy a cheeky poster from Michele Mancaniello. Whatever you procure, it will be unmistakably Monti. 

Ah, the Aventino. Something of a non-place that connects the cavernous Circo Massimo to funky Ostiense. Hidden here in not-so-plain sight is Affare Fatto. one of the most entertaining second-hand shops in Rome.