Henry Miller once wrote, “The light of Greece opened my eyes, penetrated my pores, expanded my whole being.” Greece can be enlightening — and nowhere more so than its capital city, Athens. But it’s also true that, in the summer, it can feel burning hot, with an average temperature of 84 degrees Fahrenheit.
And those temperatures are rising. Athens has endured record heat in recent years, and this summer is no different: Greece and much of Southern Europe have sweltered under a series of seemingly never-ending heat waves. When you combine the heat with the millions of tourists who visit Athens every year, the city can seem more overwhelming than enriching.
But do not fret. Below is a six-part guide that will help you experience the Greek capital’s glorious past and buzzing modern life while avoiding the worst of the crowds and steamy weather.
Athens draws visitors with its ancient ruins, and the Acropolis is the most visited archaeological site in Greece. While avoiding crowds there is difficult, it is not impossible.
First, avoid the long entrance lines by booking your tickets online (20 euros, or about $22, for a single-entry adult ticket). Another booking option, the Athena’s Combined Ticket (adults, €30), provides access to six more sites in Athens, including the nearby Agora. Start your day here, before 11 a.m., when most tourists are at the Acropolis.
Your best window for a less crowded visit to the Acropolis is between 1 p.m. and 5 p.m., when most visitors eat lunch. But the sun is high, and its been very hot, so take precautions with the weather: Wear a hat and sunscreen, walk slowly, find shade where you can, drink plenty of liquids and take a bottle of water with you. And listen to your body — if it’s too hot, hold off. Also note that starting Sept. 4, the Acropolis will be capped to 20,000 daily visitors. Greek authorities are experimenting with the limit to help combat overcrowding at the site.
Rhamnous, about an hour’s drive from downtown Athens, is a less crowded archaeological attraction — and it has ocean views (adults, €4). But wear comfortable shoes, as it is about a half-mile from the site’s entrance to the remnants of this ancient city.
With the sizzling summer temperatures, follow the local traditions when it comes to eating. Have a full breakfast in the morning, only a light bite in the afternoon and full dinner in the evening — after 8 p.m., when the heat starts to subside.
In terms of finding Greek cuisine, restaurants abound all over the city. In Piraeus, get seafood, like sea urchin and shrimp pasta, at Yperokeanio, a tavern where the scenery feels like a time capsule of a 1950s movie. LS and SIA in the neighborhood of Psyri, in central Athens, offers a contemporary spin on
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