Sun, sea and delicious food: 10 wonderful agriturismos in Italy
15.05.2024 - 11:29
/ theguardian.com
You can’t beat an agriturismo. Rural locations, owners whose main job is farming, plus food and drink produced on site all add up to a charmingly informal stay. There is rarely a reception desk and there’ll be dogs and crowing roosters to contend with, but they offer brilliant food and a friendly welcome. And they are not all buried in the countryside; there are lots of agriturismos around Italy’s 5,000 miles of coast. Here are 10 within walking or cycling distance of the beach.
The Cinque Terre is one of Italy’s top destinations, and can have crowds and prices to match, but this family farm’s five hectares of vines and olives are in the quieter village of Corniglia. A 15-minute walk from the station (there’s also a shuttle bus), it has six en suite rooms, and dinner might be pansotti (triangular ravioli) with borage and walnut sauce, followed by stuffed mussels. Corniglia’s rocky bay is a seven-minute walk away, and there are hiking routes to other villages from the door.
Doubles from €75pp half-board; barrani.it
Guests can help themselves from the lemon, clementine and orange trees surrounding this old farmhouse between Mount Etna and the sea. Dogs are welcome at all four apartments, one of which is adapted for wheelchair users. The sand and shingle beach is 200m away, while buzzy Catania, swanky Taormina, and baroque Acireale are all under an hour’s drive. Owner Giovanni Russo will take guests on a tour of the Galeano Mazzullo distillery, founded by his great-grandfather.
Doubles from €60 room-only; agriturismorussorocca.it
A mile from the Tyrrhenian coast facing Elba, this farm offers five flats, from a cute studio with a four-poster to one sleeping six, plus homemade breakfasts and dinners. There’s a tennis court, football pitch, swimming pool, play area and bikes to hire for the short ride through Rimigliano natural park to the coast. Miles of undeveloped sandy shore include a naturist area and a “dog beach” (four-legged guests are welcome at the agriturismo). Pisa is an hour away by car, Siena and Florence a little further.
Studio flat from €65 per night self-catering; lacacia.it
Otranto, on Puglia’s Adriatic coast, is a pretty port with a castle and stunning 12th-century mosaics in its cathedral. This vineyard, a few miles north, offers 18 stylish flats sleeping two to six, with terraces and a shared pool. The fine white-sand beach is a 300m walk away via a private gateway through oak woods. Guests can join wine tastings, try a day in the vegetable gardens (special events for children), or help with the grape harvest.
Studio from €134 per night self-catering; tenutacorallo.it
This terracotta farmhouse half a mile from the Maremma coast has 11 spacious suites, all with furnished veranda and