Austrian rail operator OeBB on Saturday unveiled its new generation of sleeper trains - a response to demands from travellers for less pollutant alternatives to planes and petrol or diesel cars.
13.09.2023 - 10:47 / nationalgeographic.com
The millions of tourists who annually visit the Cinque Terre in Italy seldom realize that, in addition to the region’s candy-colored villages and sea views, this is a storied wine region with some of the world’s steepest vineyards. Its grapevines climb mountains that soar as high as 1,300 feet.
“Wine came first and the villages came next, so the history of the Cinque Terre is the history of wine,” says local sommelier Yvonne Riccobaldi. Her hometown of Manarola is one of the five villages that lends this northwestern Italian region its name. The towns—Manarola, Riomaggiore, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare—comprise Cinque Terre National Park, which spans nearly ten miles of rocky coastline between the seafaring cities of Genoa and La Spezia.
An extensive network of scenic former mule trails links villages with vineyards enclosed by hand-hewn stone walls built as early as the 11th century. But crumbling terraces and a dwindling population mean that this fragile ecosystem is endangered.
Local winemakers and other businesses are focusing on sustainable and heritage tourism to bolster the economy and environment of the Cinque Terre. Here’s how to drink it in.
“We have about 30 small producers in the Cinque Terre, producing white wines made from Bosco, Albarolo, and Vermintino grapes,” Riccobaldi tells me as we sip and swirl at A Pié di Campu, her Manarola restaurant and tasting room. The yields are small, too: the average vineyard puts out just 5,000 bottles a year.
(The Cinque Terre’s ‘path of love’ is back. Don’t love it to death.)
These whites are made to drink young. But the region’s most emblematic wine is the rare and expensive sciacchetrà (shaak-eh-tra). The complex, aged dessert wine—redolent of apricots, almonds, and candied orange peel—is rooted in ancient times, when the Greeks colonized the Mediterranean basin. Today, Riccobaldi says, families enjoy sciacchetrà at weddings and other celebrations.
During the Renaissance, Pope Paul III served it at his banquets in Rome. Then, locals used a native grape varietal, called Ruzzese that, after being lost for centuries, is now being revived by a local vintner. It’s just a small taste of how businesses and entrepreneurs are leaning into the area’s heritage.
“Thanks to grassroots efforts,” says Riccobaldi, “almost all of the Cinque Terre restaurants now support local vineyards.” These include creative, contemporary spots such as Rio Bistrot in Riomaggiore and tiny, family-owned Cappun Magru, on Manarola’s church square. At the latter, the owner’s son tells me that the minerality of the region’s wines goes well with local dishes, from his mama’s seafood lasagna to spaghetti with local anchovies served at nearby Ristorante Miky.
Another
Austrian rail operator OeBB on Saturday unveiled its new generation of sleeper trains - a response to demands from travellers for less pollutant alternatives to planes and petrol or diesel cars.
Six weeks after my first trip to Italy, the fresh mozzarella I brought home is long gone, and so is the hard salami and pistachio-flavored chocolate. To squeeze a bit more from my Mediterranean experience, I can rely a little while longer on the tube of Elmex-brand toothpaste I used to brush away all that food. For as long as it lasts, each day starts and ends with an ingredient called “Fluoruro Amminico,” which I assume has to do with fluoride but haven’t bothered to translate. The lingering sense of wonder it evokes is something I would rather not name.
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