With Oktoberfest just around the corner, it’s a great time to plan a trip to Munich, a great starter city if it’s your first-ever trip to Germany. Rich in Bavarian culture, this vibrant locale is worthy of a visit all year long, with enough museums, historic squares, parks, palaces and beer gardens to suit every style, interest and budget.
The story behind currywurst, Germany's favourite fast food
11.08.2023 - 12:35 / nationalgeographic.com
Germany and curry make for an unlikely pair. This is a country most famous for colossal cuts of pork served with salted potatoes in every variety — boiled, pan-fried or shaped into cricket-ball-sized dumplings. Black pepper, to many here, is considered a spicy flavour. And yet, currywurst — sliced sausage topped with a tomato sauce flavoured by spices including yellow curry powder, paprika and potentially a few secret ingredients too — has been a German favourite for over half a century. It can be eaten at almost any time of day, and at any level of intoxication. You’ll find versions sold for €4 (£3.40) from shabby stands and haute interpretations costing €25 (£21) and paired with Champagne. It’s the fuel served in factory canteens and there are pop songs dedicated to it, politicians have even posed with it and there are festivals celebrating the best of the wurst. So how did it come to be?
It would seem currywurst was not born of German culinary tradition, but more of post-war circumstance. For starters, the two main ingredients — ketchup and curry powder — were first introduced to German pantries during the US and British occupation.
From there, however, the dish’s history gets a little less clear. German writer Uwe Timm recollects feasting on platters at Hamburg’s Grossneumarkt back in 1947. But, unfortunately, he’s the only one who remembers this. Meanwhile, at Bückeburg Castle, in Lower Saxony, chef Ludwig Dinslage claims to have prepared a similar dish in 1946 for visiting British military officers. The most common iteration of currywurst’s origin story, though, is that on a rainy September night in 1949, snack-bar owner Herta Heuwer concocted the dish out of pure luck — and boredom — in her Berlin kitchen. She blended curry powder, tomato paste and Worcestershire sauce and, like any good German, served it with a sausage. She called it 'chillup’ — a portmanteau of chilli and ketchup. By 1959, Heuwer had perfected a recipe and patented the term, leading to the first documented case of ‘currywurst’ on the market.
Since then, the dish has become a fast-food staple across the country, with Germans consuming over 800 million portions each year.
The specifics of Heuwer’s original recipe are unknown as she kept it a secret until her death — although food and beverage conglomerate Kraft did at one point try to acquire the patent. But this is a simple dish that’s open to improvisation. At its heart, the curry sauce is tomato-based. Some use tomato concentrate and water, others pureed tomatoes, some swear by ketchup (to the chagrin of some culinarians).
From there, it’s all about the spices — the most essential being curry powder. Some cheffy iterations include a reduction of sugar, balsamic vinegar,
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