Sitting on Pollepel Island in New York's Hudson River, a stunning piece of history is slowly crumbling away.
29.03.2024 - 12:53 / forbes.com
If you are looking for a unique luxury resort in Japan, Enowa may be the one.
Located at a famous onsen (hot spring) town Yufuin, Oita Prefecture in the southern part of Japan, it is a combination of an onsen, spa and a farm-to-table restaurant with 10 villas and nine guest rooms.
And chef Tashi Gyamtso is the talent that makes Enowa a distinctive place.
Originally from Tibet, Gyamtso grew up eating highly nutritious, minimally processed foods from the region and built a successful culinary career in New York. Before he moved to Japan in 2020, he served as a sous chef at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, which has two Michelin stars.
“I was strongly inspired by chef Dan Barber’s pioneering farm-to-table approach. His idea of how farming could change our future food supply became the foundation of what I cook,” says Gyamtso.
Enowa’s concept of “a botanical retreat” reflects his ideals. His menu is determined daily by the harvest from the organic farm he runs himself as well as the local farms he closely works with; throughout the facilities, there are herb gardens and walking paths where guests can directly interact with nature.
A Japanese hospitality company recruited Gyamtso to start an onsen resort in Yufuin and he arrived there two years before Enowa opened. Then he immediately started the organic farm with the guidance of Teruhisa Ishiwari, a well-respected farmer in Kyoto who works closely with top kaiseki chefs.
“Food starts from the soil, not from suppliers. So we needed to prepare the farm before anything else,” says Gyamtso.
Yufuin has been known as a difficult area to farm for its steep slope and higher elevation. “But its mineral-rich soil can yield outstanding produce. Mr. Ishiwari knows how to make it happen.”
It is hard enough to operate a restaurant in a luxury resort, but for Gyamtso, the farm is worth spending time and energy on. “Very importantly, my kitchen staff feels the direct connection between the soil and what they cook. You have to do that to be truly a great cook.”
Gyamtso’s menu includes dishes like a salad of three types of zucchini, zucchini flowers and apple almond sauce. A pork dish features its local breed served with rhubarb marmalade, heirloom spinach and potatoes.
Enowa (縁の輪) means a circle of connections. “This is a place where people enjoy the feeling of sharing and connecting with each other,” says Gyamtso.
“Since I came to Yufuin, I myself have become a part of great circles of connections, like my team at Enowa, the local farmers I work with and of course, my guests. My biggest motivation comes from our guests, particularly when they leave and thank us for the memorable time they had with us.”
Gyamtso is giving back the idea of Enowa to the local community by offering
Sitting on Pollepel Island in New York's Hudson River, a stunning piece of history is slowly crumbling away.
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