“We are very lucky to have Matthew Lightner back in Oregon.” That’s the refrain I said to myself course after exquisite course at ōkta, Chef Lightner’s fine dining restaurant in McMinnville, Oregon, in the heart of Willamette Valley wine country.
Nebraska-born Lightner first moved to Oregon to attend culinary school in Portland. Then, after enviable stints abroad at two of the world’s most revered avant-garde kitchens—René Redzepi’s Noma in Copenhagen, and Mugaritz in Spain’s Basque country—the young chef returned to Portland as Executive Chef at Castagna.
In 2011, Lightner left the Pacific Northwest again: this time to helm Atera in New York City, where he nabbed two Michelin stars and a rave three-star review from Pete Wells in The New York Times. Four years later, he moved on from Atera to explore new projects, including restaurant consulting.
After spending so many years cooking in the world’s most awarded fine dining destinations, it may have surprised some that Lightner chose to return to Oregon, opening ōkta in 2022 in the Tributary Hotel in McMinnville. But in the year and a half since, the awards have followed the chef to Willamette Valley, with ōkta landing on best restaurants lists for both Esquire and The New York Times.
Increasingly over the past four decades, Willamette Valley has been awarded the wine world’s top honors for its pinots and chardonnays. But at ōkta (inside the luxe Relais & Chateau Tributary Hotel), Chef Lightner is showing the world just how thoughtful and refined a culinary experience celebrating Oregon’s culinary treasures can be.
Oregon Bounty
From wild truffles and chanterelles foraged from the forest floor of Willamette Valley, to briny samphire, miner’s lettuce, Dungeness crab, and razor clams gathered at the coast, Oregon has an abundance of bounty year-round. Lightner takes advantage of Oregon’s countless culinary delights supplied by local purveyors, but the vast majority of the produce is grown at the restaurant’s own farm just seven miles away.
Some of the chef-curated crops of vegetables, herbs, fruit, and edible flowers from the farm arrive on guest’s plates fresh and raw, mere hours after they were plucked from the Willamette Valley soil. But many are given time for their flavors to intensify and evolve, either preserved in Lightner’s extensive larder—or in its fermentation lab, which undoubtedly takes some inspiration from his time at Noma.
Ōkta’s Seasonal Menus
I had a chance to visit ōkta’s farm during their Summer Solstice Event earlier this year, and to preview the restaurant’s summer Seasons menu.
Starting with a dish called “Friendship” (chrysanthemum flower custard with peas and blossoms), continuing to “Soil” (black truffle, seaweed, and
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Although it has been years since I’ve traveled in mesmerizing Tokyo, my memories are as vivid as though they had been sparked yesterday—pleasures aswirl in unique flavors and noises, creativity and ingenuity. So when luxury publisher Assouline released the new book Tokyo Chic, I dove into its 312 lush-paper-stock pages, with more than 200 photographs and illustrations, which are bound in an outsize (10-by-13-inches, 6.4-pound) format—a hefty hardcover wrapped in silk. The brainchild of Andrea Fazzari, whose deft imagery and words are love letters to the inimitable capital, Tokyo Chic showcases a massively enthralling—yet strikingly intimate—city. Currently based in Tokyo, Fazzari is a James Beard Award-winning photographer, author and restaurant maven with notable backgrounds in fashion and film. Born in New York City, she has lived in France, Hong Kong, Italy, Spain and Thailand—and speaks four languages. What a sophisticated guide to have at your armchair traveler’s fingertips! Indeed, this coffee table tome would make a treasured holiday gift for those who have already vacationed in Japan or simply dream of doing so.
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On a recent evening in a dimly lit Japanese restaurant, nearly a dozen diners watched rapt from across the bar as a chef blowtorched a sliver of sturgeon until it was kissed with char. He topped the nigiri with crisped fish skin and a spoonful of caviar.
In a groundbreaking triumph, Haute Retreats, renowned for curating unparalleled luxury travel experiences, has been crowned the winner of the Best Luxury Villa Rental and Accommodation Service in Europe for the year 2023 by Luxury Lifestyle Awards.
“He’s in here, in the kitchen every night and he’s smiling. He’s so happy to be doing this,” explains one of the managers of Café Carmellini. He is chef Andrew Carmellini, well known around New York the past 15 years for his respected but more casual restaurants Locanda Verde, Lafayette, The Dutch, Carne Mare and Bar Primi. This restaurant, which opened November 1st in the new Fifth Avenue Hotel, marks his return to fine dining with reinterpretations of French and Italian classics and as his most personal restaurant is the first one that bears his name. It’s been packed since opening night and looking around the Gilded Age style dining room with its oversized bronze and seeded glass chandeliers suspended from double height ceilings, plush blue banquettes and sculpted trees in the middle of the floor, the chef isn’t the only one smiling.