Paris might not be the city that never sleeps but when it's awake, it's all go, go, go. This season's no different, with so many events to put on your list that it's hard to decide what to do in Paris right now. While the fall's headliners are Paris Fashion Week and the Rugby World Cup, there's a ton of new art openings, exciting new restaurants, places to stay, and more, to explore off the runway and the field.
Hauser & Wirth, which represents over 90 artists and estates and has locations across the world, is expanding its artistic footprint with a new space in the heart of Paris. Situated in the 8th arrondissement, the gallery finds its home in a splendid 19th-century neo-classical building. Once the residence of Maison Decour, a decorative arts gallery, it will now encompass 800 square meters across four floors. The gallery's debut exhibition, "FROM SUGAR TO SHIT" by American, Los Angeles based, artist Henry Taylor, known for his disruption of tradition, opens mid-October, marking the beginning of an exciting new chapter on Paris' vibrant art scene.
This week, the Ritz Paris unveiled L'Espadon, the storied hotel's first fine-dining restaurant since 1956, the original début of the restaurant of the same name, with the trailblazing Chef Eugénie Béziat at the helm. Breaking tradition as the first female chef of 11 so far at the Ritz, Béziat, born in Gabon to Southern French parents, is a rare Michelin-starred talent in Paris. Her cuisine transcends borders, meshing mastery of French gastronomic techniques and produce with influences from her childhood between the African continent and South of France. The intimate Espadon restaurant, with just 30 seats also has an elegant outdoor terrace in the hotel's tree-lined garden. With each meticulously crafted dish, Béziat shares her heartfelt memories, sensations and flavors of Africa and Mediterranean summers, taking diners on a soulful expedition. Supported by the Ritz's stellar team, including star Pastry Chef François Perret and Director of Sommellerie Florian Guilloteau, L'Espadon ensures an unforgettable journey of flavors, textures, and tales. It's not just dining; it's an odyssey of the senses. L'Espadon at the Ritz Paris.
Next month, the Fondation Louis Vuitton will host France's first retrospective of Mark Rothko (1903-1970) since the 1999 exhibition at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris. This showcase assembles approximately 115 works sourced from major international institutional and private collections, including the National Gallery of Art in Washington, the artist's family, and the Tate Gallery in London. Spanning the entire Fondation space, it offers a chronological journey through Rothko's career, from his early figurative paintings
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On a steamy summer Monday in Paris’s 11th Arrondissement, the chef Rose Chalalai Singh, 43, is unloading a suitcase of cooking equipment at her new private dining space, Rose Kitchen. The kitchen is still in its final stages of refurbishment but, says Singh, “I can cook anywhere as long as there’s water and gas.”
Here’s a sentence I never thought I’d write: bedbugs have taken over the city of Paris, and we are now faced with the prospect that the outbreak could travel overseas. The infestation began just before Paris Fashion Week (yes, these bugs have good taste), when reports broke of increased sightings of the insects in homes, cinemas, trains and even hospitals. Now, questions are being asked about the safety of traveling to and from Paris; what we can do to prevent the spread, and whether the critters are already settling in our mattresses. Below, we answer all your questions about travel and the bedbug spread.
As Morocco continues its recovery from last month’s earthquake (which devastated many of the rural communities in the High Atlas Mountains), life in Marrakesh carries on largely uninterrupted, especially in the city’s economically vital tourism sector. That includes the opening of a clutch of new hotels, like Farasha Farmhouse, a four-room boutique property. Formerly an artist’s private retreat, Farasha, which lies 30 minutes outside of the city center, is the vision of Rosena and Fred Charmoy. The Marrakesh-based couple are the founders of Boutique Souk — a local high-end events company popular with visiting celebrities and fashion brands (their client list includes Chanel and Saint Laurent) — and are known for their theatrical, over-the-top parties and weddings. Farasha, though, is a more tranquil endeavor. “We loved the mountain views on both sides of the property,” says Rosena, referring to the Atlas and Jbilet ranges that appear to envelop the acres of olive groves and herb gardens. The two-story main building, which holds three suites and the soaring, open-plan common space, is complemented by a neighboring stand-alone cottage. To furnish the place, the Charmoys turned to local creative friends: floors are laid with custom tapestries from Beni Rugs; sculptures were installed by the Moroccan contemporary artist Amine El Gotaibi; and the book collection comes from the family estate of Diana Vreeland, the legendary former editor of Vogue, donated to the hotel by her son Freck, who served as the U.S. ambassador to Morocco. Food here is similarly considered, overseen by the chef Aniss Meski. The olive oil is made on-site, most vegetable dishes use the farm’s produce and a flock of chickens provides a daily supply of fresh eggs. And if the prospect of snagging one of only four guest rooms seems like a tall challenge, fear not: six more will be available to book starting next year.
Coming from New England, which is famous for its fall colours, I was disillusioned by the sheer multitude of brown, crumpled horse-chestnut leaves on display in Paris in autumn. So I began my quest for hints of gold, amber, russet and scarlet and have been richly rewarded.
A “widespread” increase of bedbugs has been reported in the French capital, prompting the government to pledge measures to “reassure and protect” the people. Clement Beaune, the French minister of transport, has said that he will hold a meeting this week to “take additional measures” to safeguard the public from the alleged increase in the number of insects.
After bedbug sightings on trains and cinemas in France, an expert is warning that the blood-sucking parasites could be hitching a ride to the UK on the Eurostar.
Here’s a sentence I never thought I’d write: bed bugs have taken over the city of Paris, and we are now faced with the prospect that the outbreak could travel overseas. The infestation began just before Paris Fashion Week (yes, these bugs have good taste), when reports broke of increased sightings of the insects in homes, cinemas, trains and even hospitals. Now, questions are being asked about the safety of traveling to and from Paris; what we can do to prevent the spread, and whether the critters are already settling in our mattresses. Below, we answer all your questions about travel and the bed bug spread.
Alexis recently finished working on the new Paris guidebook which is out April 2024. Here she shares her expert opinion on how to navigate Paris by public transport.