Alexis recently finished working on the new Paris guidebook which is out April 2024. Here she shares her expert opinion on how to navigate Paris by public transport.
Paris is a gorgeous sprawl of beautiful monuments and interesting neighborhoods. For many, walking is the way to go, but to cover the most ground, the convenient Paris metro blankets the city. While the comprehensive bus system allows you to sightsee while traveling, and cycling in the open air is as delightful as it looks. Here's what you need to know about Paris' transport network, tickets and taxis.
Paris’ train network consists of two separate but linked systems: the metro and the RER. The metro has 14 numbered lines (currently being expanded to 18 as part of the Grand Paris Express project) and the RER has five main lines. The systems are fully integrated and you can easily transfer from one train to another. RER express trains save time crossing the city and serve the suburbs.
Escalators and elevators ease long climbs within the stations, but are not available at every station. Service is very frequent, with wait times generally under five minutes. Some metro lines run above street level, offering scenic views. It's usually quicker to walk than to take the metro for only one or two stops.
With no stairs, buses are widely accessible and are good for parents with prams/strollers and people with limited mobility. Bus lines complement the metro: for some journeys a bus is the more direct – and scenic – way to go. Stops shows schedules, routes and often the wait time until the next bus.
Use the RATP, IDF Mobilités and SNCF apps for journey planning, route maps and wait times for the next train, bus, or to charge up your travel passes. Also, metro and bus maps of various sizes and degrees of detail are available for free at metro ticket windows.
In metro stations and on board, keep an eye out for pickpockets – they’re top zones of action.
Combining scenery and convenience, the Batobus is a handy hop-on, hop-off service stopping at nine key destinations along the Seine. In warmer months the service runs regularly through the day and offers a chance for a river cruise at a fraction of the price of a tour boat.
The Vélib’ bike-share scheme has over 20,000 bikes, both classic (green) and electric (blue) at 1400 stations citywide. Buy a subscription online using your Navigo transit pass or credit card, or at docking stations (it only accepts European-compatible chip-and-pin credit cards). There are single-trip, day and multiday pass options. App-based electric trottinettes (scooters), wildly popular with tourists, were discontinued in September 2023 by popular vote.
The cheapest and easiest way to use public transport in Paris is via the Navigo Easy
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On a steamy summer Monday in Paris’s 11th Arrondissement, the chef Rose Chalalai Singh, 43, is unloading a suitcase of cooking equipment at her new private dining space, Rose Kitchen. The kitchen is still in its final stages of refurbishment but, says Singh, “I can cook anywhere as long as there’s water and gas.”
Here’s a sentence I never thought I’d write: bedbugs have taken over the city of Paris, and we are now faced with the prospect that the outbreak could travel overseas. The infestation began just before Paris Fashion Week (yes, these bugs have good taste), when reports broke of increased sightings of the insects in homes, cinemas, trains and even hospitals. Now, questions are being asked about the safety of traveling to and from Paris; what we can do to prevent the spread, and whether the critters are already settling in our mattresses. Below, we answer all your questions about travel and the bedbug spread.
As Morocco continues its recovery from last month’s earthquake (which devastated many of the rural communities in the High Atlas Mountains), life in Marrakesh carries on largely uninterrupted, especially in the city’s economically vital tourism sector. That includes the opening of a clutch of new hotels, like Farasha Farmhouse, a four-room boutique property. Formerly an artist’s private retreat, Farasha, which lies 30 minutes outside of the city center, is the vision of Rosena and Fred Charmoy. The Marrakesh-based couple are the founders of Boutique Souk — a local high-end events company popular with visiting celebrities and fashion brands (their client list includes Chanel and Saint Laurent) — and are known for their theatrical, over-the-top parties and weddings. Farasha, though, is a more tranquil endeavor. “We loved the mountain views on both sides of the property,” says Rosena, referring to the Atlas and Jbilet ranges that appear to envelop the acres of olive groves and herb gardens. The two-story main building, which holds three suites and the soaring, open-plan common space, is complemented by a neighboring stand-alone cottage. To furnish the place, the Charmoys turned to local creative friends: floors are laid with custom tapestries from Beni Rugs; sculptures were installed by the Moroccan contemporary artist Amine El Gotaibi; and the book collection comes from the family estate of Diana Vreeland, the legendary former editor of Vogue, donated to the hotel by her son Freck, who served as the U.S. ambassador to Morocco. Food here is similarly considered, overseen by the chef Aniss Meski. The olive oil is made on-site, most vegetable dishes use the farm’s produce and a flock of chickens provides a daily supply of fresh eggs. And if the prospect of snagging one of only four guest rooms seems like a tall challenge, fear not: six more will be available to book starting next year.
Modern travel is full of conveniences. Global air hubs connect travelers to faraway places in a matter of hours. But with all these modern comforts, it’s easy to pass right by the things that make the actual travel part of the journey worthwhile. Vacation by Rail’s Winter Magic trip, on board VIA Rail’s Vancouver to Jasper train, is the ultimate way to take in Canada’s winter wilderness the slow, nostalgic way. Views of towering mountain peaks and river-carved valleys combined with a memorable onboard experience sure beats cramming into an airplane seat in economy.
Coming from New England, which is famous for its fall colours, I was disillusioned by the sheer multitude of brown, crumpled horse-chestnut leaves on display in Paris in autumn. So I began my quest for hints of gold, amber, russet and scarlet and have been richly rewarded.
A high-end train journey enables you to experience destinations at a unique pace and in total comfort while enjoying first-class service. These are some of the most exciting luxury rail routes to have on your radar.
After bedbug sightings on trains and cinemas in France, an expert is warning that the blood-sucking parasites could be hitching a ride to the UK on the Eurostar.
Here’s a sentence I never thought I’d write: bed bugs have taken over the city of Paris, and we are now faced with the prospect that the outbreak could travel overseas. The infestation began just before Paris Fashion Week (yes, these bugs have good taste), when reports broke of increased sightings of the insects in homes, cinemas, trains and even hospitals. Now, questions are being asked about the safety of traveling to and from Paris; what we can do to prevent the spread, and whether the critters are already settling in our mattresses. Below, we answer all your questions about travel and the bed bug spread.