A taste of Sierra Leone, from sizzling fired bites to soothing fish stews

22.11.2023 - 09:53 / nationalgeographic.com / Nova Scotia

Over the centuries, Sierra Leone has been a place of refuge. The Limba peoples were drawn by whispers of a land untouched by turmoil in Africa’s Sahelian kingdoms, and other tribes set out for there too, including the Mende, Loko, Susu, Fula, Temne and Sherbro. It was a place that embraced diversity, setting the stage for a journey of culinary exploration and growth that’s shaped the food history of Sierra Leone — or ‘Salone’ as many of its people call it. 

The fusion of cultures is palpable in the country’s marketplaces, where vendors from different backgrounds stand shoulder to shoulder. These places are a sensory symphony. Amid the hubbub — people chatting, purchasing, telling stories — the air is thick with the smoke of roast cassava, the sizzle of fried foods that locals call fry fry, and the aroma of spiced kankankan beef and marinaded pepe chicken on grills. You catch the fragrance of seasonings and the sweet undertones of tropical fruit. 

I grew up in Freetown, the capital, where such markets were common. The city has a unique history, culture and cuisine, owing to international trade, and the arrival of Muslim merchants, European colonisers and returning slaves from the likes of Nova Scotia and Jamaica. It’s — dare I say it — the home of Afro-fusion cooking. European influences are seen in doughnuts and tapalapa (a baguette-like bread); Lebanese traders introduced kibbeh (balls of bulgur wheat and meat); returning slaves brought cassava bread. 

But Sierra Leone offers more than that. In this coastal nation, seafood is widely available, and our diet is very influenced by it: from fishball stew to huntu (steamed fishballs) and pepe snapper. We have some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, too. At Lumley, for example, on the edge of the capital, the aromas of lobster and crab mingle with the salty ocean breeze.

Sweet Salone — Recipes from the Heart of Sierra Leone, by Maria Bradford, is published by Quadrille, £30.

1. Cassava leaf plasa
Pounded and shredded cassava leaves are cooked in coconut oil, onions, ogiri (fermented oil seeds), butter beans, peanut butter and a little okra. Eaten with chilli, it has an absolutely gorgeous aroma. It’s a national treasure. 

2. Mokor
Introduced to Sierra Leone by the Temne tribe, this sweet and savoury green banana fritter is today sold by street food vendors throughout the country, crossing tribal boundaries. 

3. Granat cake 
Another staple often sold by street food vendors, this peanut brittle is simple, sweet and crunchy — a favourite snack to share with friends or eat while strolling around.