Travel in county Seward

On September 1, Carol and Tom Cutkomp stepped aboard Royal Caribbean's Radiance of the Seas ship in Seward, Alaska, and began unpacking their belongings, eager to kick off their vacation after three long days of travel.

For many Alaska visitors, the chance to drop a line in the briny depths of the ocean, or cast a fly rod upon a rushing river, is the reason they’ve traveled north – and for good reason. There is nothing quite like fresh fish – caught amid the stunning scenery of Alaska – consumed over a dinner table filled with tales of the day itself.

Alaska's impressive southern coastlines contain hordes of island archipelagos, deep fjords and ancient glaciers. Nearly all of the area is roadless, so seafaring vessels, including cruise ships, are a popular way for visitors to experience these pristine areas.

In a landscape sparsely populated with people but covered in spruce forests, taiga, tundra and lakes, a singular physical force reigns supreme – the 20,310ft imposing elevation of Denali, the mountain that dominates its eponymous national park in Alaska.

The busy summer travel season is fast approaching in Alaska, and with it comes the opening of several new hotels and significant renovations to others. It's been a busy offseason in the 49th State.

In January, Alaska celebrated its 65th anniversary of becoming the 49th state. Such a milestone sets the stage for high expectations, and with good reason: Following a record-setting tourism season in 2023 led by more than 1.6 million cruise visitors, predictions are for another banner year in 2024, according to the Alaska Travel Industry Association (ATIA).

Journeying by train through the wilds of Alaska was not something I expected to add to my 2023 gratitude list.

Royal Caribbean canceled or delayed three back-to-back Alaska voyages on the Radiance of the Seas cruise ship in September, throwing a wrench into the (often expensive) travel plans of hundreds of customers.

Royal Caribbean canceled two back-to-back cruises with less than a week's notice — leaving many travelers scrambling to make alternative travel arrangements.

Traditionally, Alaska cruises have been seven days in length—either a weeklong loop of the Inside Passage roundtrip from Seattle or Vancouver, or a similar transit across the Gulf of Alaska sailing one way between Vancouver and Seward or Whittier.

Last summer, on an overcast July day, the coastal town of Sitka, once the capital of Russian Alaska and long a popular stop on Inside Passage cruises in Southeast Alaska, was thronged with passengers disembarking from three cruise ships. To accommodate the crowds, the city had closed the main street to cars. In their place, food trucks, carts and stands had popped up, creating a festival atmosphere where ambulatory diners spooned seafood chowder and gobbled tacos.

Train travel in the United States may not be as common or practical as in other parts of the world, but that does not mean it’s nonexistent — far from it. There are high-speed trains operating on the coast of Florida; there are Amtrak trains that will take you through some of the nation’s most beautiful national parks; there is a train in Colorado that runs at the bottom of a 1,200-foot-deep gorge and one that goes through California’s most celebrated wine region; and there are trains in Alaska that will take you for the ride of a lifetime through the most spectacular scenery — in glass-ceiling cars, no less!