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Everything you need to know about visiting Bordeaux with kids
16.01.2024 - 18:45 / lonelyplanet.com
Fellow parents, forget the extraordinary wine for a brief moment (although there’s always grape juice for the kids). With its giddy mix of sweeping green spaces, river life, interactive museums and casual dining scene, Bordeaux tops the French charts for urban exploration en famille.
All too often, families seeking a baptism in French joie de vivre hit the country’s capital. Number one top tip: Bordeaux’s smaller size and more accommodating, provincial vibe make it an easier nut to crack.
This is a city with mountains of space for all ages – energy-burning tot to tech-smart teen – to paddle in puddles, toot bicycle bells, flip tricks in the skatepark, let off steam and have an all-around blast. Visit at the weekend and you’ll find yourself surrounded by Bordelais families, also making the most of their enchanting, dynamic playground of a city.
How can a city whose signature gâteau (cake) is sandcastle-shaped be anything other than kid-friendly? Bordeaux’s super-efficient mix of trams, riverboats and bicycles make getting around a breeze – and fun to boot. With the exception of the old-world neighborhood Chartrons, and medieval St-Pierre and St-Paul, pavements are generally wide and easy to navigate with a pram or pushchair; bring a sling/baby carrier for historic quartiers (neighborhoods).
Many restaurants offer a good-value menu enfant (children’s menu for kids under 12), which, coupled with the city’s smorgasbord of cafes, casual bistros and pavement terraces, make eating out with children reasonably relaxed.
Weekend brunch is big with Bordelais families. The Saturday brunch buffet at Le Gabriel’s informal bistro Le 1544 on place de la Bourse, with playful entertainment for younger children, is a swish family favorite. On the right bank, Magasin Général at eco-driven Darwin – with kids’ play corners, ping pong and table football in the courtyard, and a skatepark in an old hangar – is a wildly popular weekend hangout for all budgets.
State museums are free to those under 18 and tiny travelers under five can ride public transport for free. Families keen to sightsee should consider a Bordeaux City Pass (24/48/72 hours adult €34/44/50, 6–17yrs €19/26/31) covering public transport, a city tour and admission to 15 major museums.
Keeping the entire clan happy is the key to family travel: cruising riverside along silky-smooth quays on foot or by bicycle, splashing around in the “magic mirror” of the world’s largest reflecting pool, delving into the world of wine at the interactive La Cité du Vin (lots of smelling for under sevens, a superb digital children’s tour for kids aged eight to 12, and tasting workshops for parents) all do just that.
Paris might have macarons, but Bordeaux seduces the sweet-toothed with can
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