I'd seen images of baby Krishna atop a banyan leaf in pop devotional art posters all over India. Yet it was only on a dusty lane in Jaipur's Old City that I witnessed the leaf of the banyan tree deliver something divine in person. “That's outstanding,” said Chintan Pandya as he tasted a piece of kesar pista makhan—a seemingly simple bar of saffron-tinted butter topped with bits of crushed pistachio—picked off the dried leaf. “No…mind-blowing.” Licking his fingers, America's most acclaimed Indian chef passed the bar to me. “Here, use your hands.”
Everything from Gulab Chand Dairy, from lassis to rabri and shrikhand, had been excellent. This makhan, however, was sublime: at once inexplicably light and visceral, textures and flavors bursting as it melted on the palate. Pandya's cofounder in the Unapologetic Foods restaurant group, Roni Mazumdar, plucked makhan off another leaf. “Unreal,” he said, his eyes half-closed. “I remember having a bite like this as a kid.”
Raj kachori at Elco Pani Puri Centre in Mumbai
Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya at Mumbai’s Elco Pani Puri Centre
Perhaps inevitably, Pandya's rendition of this makhan would become a staple of the menu at Dhamaka, one of New York's buzziest restaurants. Its deceptive simplicity spoke to the chef, who in recent years has been on a mission to cook only dishes he feels connected to. The nostalgia it evoked appealed to Mazumdar, a restaurateur who trained as an actor at Lee Strasberg Studio, for whom eating is an emotional journey, a story to be told.
The pair, who have launched seven restaurants since they first met in 2017, have been praised for opening New Yorkers' eyes to the possibilities of Indian cuisine. After transporting so many diners, Pandya and Mazumdar visited the country in person this past February and March. The two-week trip was the first in years for both Pandya, a Mumbai native who moved to New York in 2016, and Mazumdar, who emigrated from Kolkata at age 12—and their first to the country together. I've visited a half dozen times to see my late father's Bengali family; my last trip was to immerse his ashes in the Ganges. As Mazumdar and Pandya's plans for a food exploration came into focus, they asked me to join. They'd been invited to cook at a series of exclusive dinners at JW Marriotts in New Delhi and Mumbai, but the trip would also provide a chance to gorge on flavors familiar and not, in the hopes of discovering dishes to reproduce artfully in New York.
An antique car outside of Spice Court in Jaipur
Marwadi thali at Sri Moturam Prasadam in Jaipur
The duo's success has come from aggressively scrubbing away pretension and cooking the food they loved—and missed—first at Adda in Long Island City, Queens, then with Dhamaka,
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Where do you find spectacular and life-changing destinations that are without the hordes that have become commonplace in so many destinations worldwide, particularly in Europe? Last week in Forbes, I asked some travel experts about where people are going. This week, I asked the same gurus about their choices for where to go next. I was looking for off-the-radar destinations they love, places to go before they get discovered.
Ravinder Bhogal was born in Nairobi, is of Indian descent, and lives in London. Rather aptly, the chef and writer refers to Jikoni, her Marylebone restaurant, as a “no-borders kitchen.” The ingredients at Jikoni, which means kitchen in Kiswahili, are seasonal British and the inspiration, global—a happy amalgam of the food memories Bhogal has amassed across many geographies. Here, a crispy aubergine in Sichuan sauce sits comfortably alongside a kale chaat or hummus with sheermal. “Borders don’t belong in kitchens,” she says.
“That’s the restaurant I could never get into in Rome,” said the woman walking behind me on Soho’s MacDougal Street to her friend. “Now I can’t get into the one in New York either.” Roscioli, the restaurant in question, a mixed street level trattoria/salumeria and basement level tasting menu dining room has definitely been a tough table to get since its phased opening: the downstairs dining room in July and the A La Carte street level space in October. But for those who persevere (for walk in tables and a few reservations on Resy), lively, authentic, classic dishes will transport them instantly to Rome.
Although it has been years since I’ve traveled in mesmerizing Tokyo, my memories are as vivid as though they had been sparked yesterday—pleasures aswirl in unique flavors and noises, creativity and ingenuity. So when luxury publisher Assouline released the new book Tokyo Chic, I dove into its 312 lush-paper-stock pages, with more than 200 photographs and illustrations, which are bound in an outsize (10-by-13-inches, 6.4-pound) format—a hefty hardcover wrapped in silk. The brainchild of Andrea Fazzari, whose deft imagery and words are love letters to the inimitable capital, Tokyo Chic showcases a massively enthralling—yet strikingly intimate—city. Currently based in Tokyo, Fazzari is a James Beard Award-winning photographer, author and restaurant maven with notable backgrounds in fashion and film. Born in New York City, she has lived in France, Hong Kong, Italy, Spain and Thailand—and speaks four languages. What a sophisticated guide to have at your armchair traveler’s fingertips! Indeed, this coffee table tome would make a treasured holiday gift for those who have already vacationed in Japan or simply dream of doing so.
Over the centuries, the Indigenous Shinto religion and Buddhism, imported from India by way of China, gained prominence in Japan at different times. From the beginning, beliefs intermingled, creating what’s now called shinbutsu shugo. Then, from the end of the 19th century through the first half of the 20th, government policy sought to split the two in an effort to elevate Shinto.
Vietnam was the most-searched destination for Indians in 2023, according to the Google trends. There was a revival of global exploration after a three-year hiatus due to the pandemic. The resurgence is evident in the latest report, unveiling the most Googled tourist destinations of the year. Here are some of the top searches:
Step into the cramped hall of Jordan’s Souk el-Khodra, the Amman Vegetable Market, and the aroma is the first thing you notice. Certainly, the colors are dazzling – the bright green of raw chickpeas, deep purple of sumac, golden turmeric, and dozens more vibrant provisions decorate brimful tables. Meanwhile, the ambient haggling in Jordanian Arabic provides a melodic soundtrack.
Founded in 1850, Cartersville, Georgia, rests between Atlanta and Chattanooga at the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. A charming small city, Cartersville is carving a niche of its own as a cultural and historical hub for tourism. Headlining are a slew of museums: the Booth Western Art Museum, Tellus Science Museum, and Savoy Automobile Museum. In addition, Cartersville is home to two state parks, Red Top Mountain State Park and the Etowah Indian Mounds State Historic Site. Despite the attractions, the small town feels connected with a welcoming community.
Destinations worldwide are courting Indian travelers, including countries throughout Africa. Authorities in several African nations are ramping up their efforts to attract visitors from the rapidly growing market.
Travel platform EaseMyTrip anticipates a robust quarter during the festive season, with a big increase in Christmas week bookings – a year-on-year surge of 20% to 30%.