As someone who grew up in Wisconsin and moved to New York City a decade ago, I enjoy analyzing the similarities and differences between the two regions I call home.
New Restaurant Import Roscioli: The Vivid Flavors Of Rome In New York
21.12.2023 - 20:21 / forbes.com
“That’s the restaurant I could never get into in Rome,” said the woman walking behind me on Soho’s MacDougal Street to her friend. “Now I can’t get into the one in New York either.” Roscioli, the restaurant in question, a mixed street level trattoria/salumeria and basement level tasting menu dining room has definitely been a tough table to get since its phased opening: the downstairs dining room in July and the A La Carte street level space in October. But for those who persevere (for walk in tables and a few reservations on Resy), lively, authentic, classic dishes will transport them instantly to Rome.
In Rome, the Roscioli empire began in 1972 with the bakery Antico Forno Roscioli expanding 20 years later to the Salumeria Roscioli, a gourmet shop that later added tables for dining; it now stocks 300 cheeses, 200 cured meats and shelves lined with jars of artisan products; on most nights there’s a several hour wait for tables. The café Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria and Rimessa Roscioli, specializing in wine and food pairings came later. In New York, the various outlets are combined in the two floors with jars of products imported from Italy and wine bottles on shelves lining the walls; the street level space is open as a shop during the day with lunch service possible at a date still to be determined.
The New York edition started as a pop-up two years ago in the restaurant that previously occupied this space: Niche Niche which operated as a dinner party with a different wine and menu pairing each night. Over a meal in Rome, that restaurant’s owner Ariel Arce reconnected with the Rosciolis, realized that Rimessa Riscioli was similar in concept to Niche Niche and decided to join forces. The result is this bilevel showcase, Roscioli’s first outpost outside of Rome.
Downstairs, the four course plus cheese and dessert tasting menu changes seasonally as the rotating dinner party. Included in the current lineup: Burrata with semi dried Puglian tomatoes, Broccoletti, Artichokes and Prosciutto; Mezze Maniche Amatriciana, the classic Roman sauce of tomatoes, onion and guanciale served with ridged tubular pasta; Butter Risotto with Lemon and Parmesan; Brasato Al Barolo (braised beef) with Polenta and Maitake Mushrooms followed by a selection of aged cheeses and Tiramisu accompanied by a selection of Italian wines.
Having the menu preselected makes dining here much easier. Upstairs in the A La Carte dining room, the choices are dizzying. I chose a zesty Caponata, the Sicilian compote of eggplant, tomatoes, capers, olives and onions to start, followed by the Mezze Maniche Amatriciana also on the tasting menu which was rich and meaty, dotted with chunks of the cured pork jowl, and Porchetta Di Maialino which after a
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